The New Prague
Awaiting Your Discovery

DAY 3

Now that you've seen the Prague that the tourists see, it's time to go off the beaten path. Nove Mesto, or New Town, is actually not so new. Its establishment in 1348 made Prague at the time one of the biggest cities in Europe.

Start the day with a walk up Wenceslas Square, which is really just a wide, tree-lined Parisian-like boulevard, topped by the National Museum. In August 1968, invading Russian soldiers fired on the domed building when they mistook it for the parliament. A few months later, in front of the museum, and right next to the mounted statue of King/Saint Wenceslas, Charles University student Jan Palach torched himself to protest the invasion. He died a few days later, an unforgotten martyr. In 1989, communist rule was ushered out as a million-strong maelstrom gathered here. At one point the massive crowd shook its keys in unison, an eloquent way of telling the occupying Russians to hit the road, Boris. Today, the square is lined with upscale shops and department stores.

As you meander, check out the Museum of Communism. Ideally situated above McDonald's and next to a casino, this memorial to the bygone commie era features pictures, movies and memorabilia that speak for themselves in this well-documented and well-planned museum. Children's schoolbooks extolling the virtues of socialism set a mock school scene next to a near empty "general store." The dramatic movie detailing the days leading up to the 1989 Velvet Revolution is worth a sit-down. Children will also appreciate the eye-level interactive displays.

At the top, walk around the National Museum to get to the leafy neighborhood Vinohrady. Walk up the wide street Vinohradska until you get to a cruise-ship like structure on the left. The Church of the Sacred Heart, designed by under-appreciated and ahead-of-his-time Slovenian architect Josip Plecnik, is one of the most striking pieces of modern architecture in the city. Wandering around the inside is recommended, but the real beauty of the church is on the outside.

Zizkov TV tower

The next destination isn't hard to find: just look up. The Zizkov TV tower, despite looking like a 1950s moon rocket, was actually built just before the fall of the Iron Curtain. One of its original functions was to block (propaganda) frequencies coming from the West. Today, the Orwellian tower helps to make sure Czechs get to see all the bad American television shows they can consume. The views from the lookout tower are breathtaking.

For lunch, try Radost. This vegetarian restaurant/lounge/club complex is now a Prague institution. Founded by Americans in the early '90s, Radost (which means "happiness" in Czech) offers fine fare no matter what time of day. Its weekend brunch, though, is unforgettable.

Walking back toward the center of town, take a moment in Charles Square (Karlovo Namesti). This square, in actuality a big park split by Jecna Street, was home to the largest relic show in Europe in the 14th century. Charles IV, king of the Holy Roman Empire who ruled from Prague, loved collecting relics. Once a year, when he displayed them here in the eponymous square, pilgrims came from all over the continent to get a peak at a saint's tongue or finger, or the Virgin's breast milk.

Prague is romantically illuminated during the Christmas season

Near the square you'll find the Charles University Botanical Garden, the oldest in the country. Though it specializes in Central European flora, it also houses a clone of the Methuselah tree—the oldest documented living organism.

Another option, if you have time, is to head to the Prague Zoo, one of the oldest in Central Europe, located outside the city in a valley with great views of the natural landscape. Take the metro "C" to the end at Holesovice, then bus No. 112 to the last stop. Lions, tigers, elephants, gorillas, mountain climbing ibexes and more—will captivate young and old, while also giving you a chance to mix with the locals who like to escape here.

For dinner, La Perle de Prague serves up some great French dishes on the panoramic seventh floor of the Fred and Ginger building. End your evening at "it" bar Techtle Mechtle ("hanky panky"), which oozes designer sex appeal under its vaulted brick ceilings. Get cozy in a shadowy corner and then pick your potion from the substantial cocktail menu as you nibble on your favorite Italian antipasti or other Mediterranean fare.