Providence, Rhode Island

Providence has been many things during its 350-year-plus history—manufacturing center, slave-trade nexus, symbol of urban decay and, most recently, a city on the rise. Today, the Providence Renaissance is largely complete, as the Rhode Island capital combines urban sophistication of its cultural scene with the intimacy of a historic New England burg.

In fact, you could say Providence has finally come full circle: after all, it was founded by exiled preacher and pioneer of religious freedom Roger Williams, and was known from its earliest days as a haven for scoundrels and free thinkers alike. Since then, its citizens have embraced the likes of both bad-boy ex-mayor Vincent "Buddy" Cianci Jr.—the prime architect of the city's revival who was also a twice-convicted felonas well as openly gay current mayor David Cicilline, whose sexual orientation has caused virtually no political fuss in an era of heated nationwide debate over civil rights.

At times a center for the infamous slaves-for-rum Triangle Trade, as well as for jewelry manufacturing, banking and insurance, Providence has always been a hub of commerce and cultural exchange. The city is home to the Ivy League's Brown University, the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) and Johnson & Wales University. The latter's College of Culinary Arts—along with the homegrown talents of the city's large Italian, Portuguese and Latino communities—has made Providence a Mecca for gourmets.

In terms of accommodations, the Hotel Providence—smack in Providence's Arts and Entertainment District—is conveniently located for walking excursions. Filled with art and antiques, the 80-room, fin-de-siècle-style property also boasts art and antiques throughout. Guests will feel equally cozy (and oh-so-19th-century) at the Old Court Bed and Breakfast, located just three minutes' walking distance from downtown on Benefit Street, which is charmingly lined with Colonial and Victorian homes. Period-style furnishings decorate the pretty rooms at this exquisite Italianate former rectory, which is very popular with visiting Brown families and faculty. Finally, there's the city's best corporate hotel, The Westin Providence, linked by sky-bridge to the Rhode Island Convention Center and the Providence Place Mall.

DAY 1

The Downcity district clearly reflects Providence's dual nature. Agora (in the aforementioned Westin Providence) is part of a new breed of hotel restaurants truly worth a visit. At breakfast, Agora offers a generous buffet, as well as an a la carte menu; if itinerary permits, splurge on the leisurely Sunday brunch.

DePasquala Plaza in Federal Hill

For a more informal repast, take the few blocks' stroll from the hotel to Providence's Federal Hill neighborhood, a historic Italian enclave that's home to some of the city's best restaurants. Opening at 7:30 a.m., the Scialo Bros. Bakery will help you greet the morning with a selection of biscotti and other Italian pastries along with a free cup of coffee, just as it has for bleary-eyed locals every day since 1916.

Steps away from the Westin is the centerpiece of Providence's downtown revival: Waterplace Park. A decade ago, city planners began transforming a barren landscape of parking lots, railroad tracks and debris-strewn rivers into an elegant urban park, complete with arched bridges, waterside walkways and a central basin with a performance amphitheater. Stretching from the upscale Providence Place Mall to the mouth of Narragansett Bay, Waterplace Park is a stroller's paradise almost any time of year; a pair of authentic Venetian gondolas offer those less inclined to hoof it a unique tour of downtown. On select evenings, the rivers of Waterplace Park literally light up for WaterFire, an inspired bit of outdoor art in which floating braziers full of hardwood are lit to the accompaniment of haunting music amid a festival atmosphere.

After a morning riverside stroll, the restaurants at the Providence Place Mall are a convenient stop for lunch. Streetside eateries include FiRE + iCE, with its showy kitchen and Mongolian barbecue, and the elegant Napa Valley Grille. Joe's American Bar and Grill serves steaks and sandwiches on an outdoor patio.

Tazza

Inside the mall, you'll find the usual array of upscale franchises, anchored by Nordstrom and Macy's, as well as a smattering of local retailers like the eclectic Oop! boutique. Perched atop the mall is the Feinstein IMAX Theater, whose wide selection of mega-screen movies is popular with families.

Downcity is also a must-see for the urban architecture aficionado. The city's former retail district is full of Colonial, Federal, Greek Revival and Victorian structures; Providence is said to have a larger percentage of buildings on the National Historic Register than any city in the United States. Some worthwhile stops include the 1913 Turk's Head Building, adorned with a granite relief of a ship's figurehead on its rounded prow, and the Shepard Company Building on Westminster Street, formerly the heart of Providence's shopping center.

Long neglected, Downcity has recently become the epicenter of a major residential revival. Historic office buildings are being converted into condominiums and apartments, sparking the return of street-level shops and eateries. The funky Tazza on Westminster Street is a great place to grab a cup of coffee and a panino, fire up your laptop to check your e-mail or the sports scores and enjoy live music in the evenings. Local 121, situated in a onetime hotel for traveling salesmen, is an acclaimed purveyor of super-fresh, locally sourced cuisine. And don't miss The Arcade, the nation's first indoor shopping mall, a three-story diversion for shop-til-you-droppers built in 1828.

Shopping on Westminster Street

Call ahead for dinner reservations at Mill's Tavern, where Chef Jaime D'Oliveira fires up everything from halibut to suckling pig over a wood-fired grill. As night falls, Providence's art scene comes to life. The theater at the Trinity Repertory Company is one of the nation's most acclaimed regional playhouses, offering a variety of productions on two stages, including works by local playwrights and classics such as Our Town and Cyrano de Bergerac. National tours of Broadway plays like Movin' Out and The Lion King always schedule a stint at the historic Providence Performing Arts Center, a gilded jewel in the crown of Downcity.

Cap your evening with dessert at Pastiche on Federal Hill or the cozy L'Elizabeth on South Main Street before heading back to your hotel.