Rome,Italy 72-Hour Vacation

Fontana del Pantheon

DAY 3

Today you'll pay homage to the Italian capital's countless fountains. Begin with breakfast at the Caffè Farnese in the serene Piazza Farnese. The Florentine-style, 16th-century palace, embellished by Michelangelo, is now the French Embassy. The adjacent Piazza Campo de 'Fiori is best visited in the morning during the lively market, brimming with brilliant fruits and vegetables. At night, the piazza overflows with an international mix of pleasure seekers who frequent the square's numerous restaurants, bars, pubs and cafés. The Antico Forno Roscioli is a popular choice for an inexpensive lunch, where the typically Roman pizza bianca, or white pizza, should not be missed.

Lion detail on the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

Continue your discoveries at one of the city's most beautiful squares, the oblong Piazza Navona, where Bernini's Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi ("Fountain of the Four Rivers"), commands contemplation. The piazza's two other Renaissance fountains, the Fontana del Nettuno (Neptune) and the Fontana del Moro (Moor), are also worth a moment of musing. This neighborhood is worth a repeat visit in the evening when bars and restaurants come to life amid the handsomely illuminated fountains. For delectable thin crust pizza or some of the city's best bucatini alla matriciana, round the corner to La Montecarlo on Vicolo Savelli. Just to the west of Piazza Navona, Via del Governo Vecchio is home to cheap and unforgettable trattoria Da Tonino and L'Altro Mastai, headed up by Heinz Beck trainee, Fabio Baldassare. Peruse the vintage shops and charmingly eclectic boutiques before stopping for a glass of wine or an aperitif at Il Piccolo wine bar. Or, for a glass of wine in a SoHo-like ambience, head back to Campo de' Fiori to hit up the chic Femme on Via del Pellegrino.

Afterward, direct yourselves eastbound (away from the river) toward the 16th-century Fontana del Pantheon and its elegant, circular marble basin which refreshes the Piazza della Rotonda. Leaving the Piazza Navona from the northern end and turning right towards the Via della Maddalena will take you to the lively Gelateria della Palma, where a wealth of unique gelato flavors will hold you over until lunchtime. For a more refined environment in which to linger over your gelato, choose the venerable old ice cream parlor, Giolitti, just a few steps away on the Via Uffici del Vicario.

Trevi fountain

Cross the busy Via del Corso and follow the signs to the Piazza di Trevi, where the most famous of Roman fountains gushes in front of a constant crowd of coin throwers. Tossing three coins into the fountain (and over your shoulder), according to legend and the famous song from the 1950s, guarantee a return trip to the Eternal City. The majestic Palazzo Poli serves as a dramatic backdrop to this 18th-century fountain, made even more famous by Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni in the film, "La Dolce Vita." For more of the "sweet life," stop into the nearby Gelato di San Crispino, famous for its vast array of original flavors that include many varieties tinctured with spirits. Walking behind the fountain and crossing the Via del Tritone will point you in the direction of the Piazza di Spagna, where the Fontana della Barcaccia draws attention for its peculiar boat shape. Tourists are often seen drinking the water from this simple, spouting structure built by father and son Bernini in order to embellish the Piazza di Spagna in spite of the zone's poor water pressure.

Lunch options in the neighborhood are plentiful. Try the discreetly located Otello della Concordia, that has a varied menu offering traditional Italian and some Roman specialties in a typical trattoria setting. A few doors down on the Via della Croce, L'Enoteca Antica, or the Old Wine Bar, presents the ideal place for sipping prosecco and sampling parmigiano reggiano. Otherwise, the funky and fashionable Osteria Margutta, frequented by local personalities and savvy tourists, offers quality cooking and a quiet location on the gallery studded Via Margutta.

Villa Giulia

Get in some people watching with your after-lunch espresso at café Rosati, in Piazza del Popolo, a favorite Roman rendezvous, or stop at the polished Caffè Greco on the stylish Via dei Condotti. One of the oldest cafés in Rome dating from 1760, the Caffè Greco served as the meeting point for celebrated patrons that included Liszt, Wagner, Goethe, Stendhal and even Buffalo Bill. For a panoramic view of Rome's historic center, ascend the Spanish Steps toward the rose-hued Church of Trinità dei Monti. Continue along the Piazza della Trinità dei Monti until you reach the confines of the Villa Borghese, Rome 's principal park, in which you'll find the exquisite Borghese Gallery. This small museum houses Renaissance paintings by Rubens, Raphael, Titian and Caravaggio, as well as several sensuous statues by Bernini that include the intricate "Apollo and Daphne." Due to the gallery's popularity and intimate size, visitors are required to purchase tickets in advance in order to obtain a time slot during which to view the collection.

Also within the Villa Borghese gardens is the Villa Giulia, where classical concerts are held in the evening during the summer. Finally, just outside the park, the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna showcases works from Italian artists from the late 19th century to 1945. While the museum restaurant is not coveted for its cuisine, the sprawling outdoor terrace draws diners in search of a sun-drenched afternoon lunch.

La Terrazza dell'Eden

Keep the park theme going with a memorable meal at Casina Valadier. The restaurant is situated in a sumptuous villa atop the Pincio gardens that affords a breathtaking view over Rome. Otherwise, exit Villa Borghese at Porta Pinciana and get in a dose of the Dolce Vita on the street that inspired Fellini's film about superfluous nightlife. Via Veneto is no longer a bastion of youth and glamour, but its stately elegance is worth a nostalgic stroll. For refined dining with a view, book a table at La Terrazza dell'Eden, the rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Eden. Via Veneto is famous for its opulent, old-fashioned sidewalk cafés—most notably, the Gran Caffè Doney. On Sundays a stylish set dines at the sidewalk tables at one of the city's most glamorous aperitivos. Across the road, historic Harry's Bar is guaranteed to wash away the bitter taste of leaving the Eternal City.