It's a city of occasional upheaval—politically, culturally and physically, in the form of a couple of serious earthquakes—but across its colorful history and into its vibrant present, San Francisco's heart remains unshaken.
For most, the city represents a happy marriage of freedom and indulgence. The unruly hedonism of its Barbary Coast days may have long subsided, no one smokes any longer in the Beat-era bars, and the Haight District's hippies have been replaced by boutique-browsing tourists—but people of all kinds and cultures still come here to be exactly themselves and revel in beauty and pleasure.
And there is so much to sample! Founded on ethnicity, economics, or simply on inclination, San Francisco's wildly divergent neighborhoods checker the city from the Pacific Ocean to the bay. Each has its own character, specialty, restaurants, nightlife and attractions, and 72 hours offers plenty of time to dip into a few and taste their charms.
You really don't need to rent a car for a stay in San Francisco itself. Use the cable cars, buses and taxis to get around the city, and mass transit if you're going to the suburbs. If you're planning to cross the Golden Gate Bridge and explore wine country (and we recommend it—see Tastings & Events), wait until you're ready to leave town to rent a car. You will save a considerable amount of time and money.
Also, bring comfortable walking shoes and at least a medium jacket. San Francisco is best explored on foot, and the weather can turn chilly at the strangest times of day and in the most illogical times of year. As Mark Twain was (mistakenly) believed to have said, "The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco," so really—don't let the "sunny California" reputation fool you, especially in July.
Check into two kinds of passes to cut your sightseeing costs and eliminate some of the hassles of ticket lines. The CityPass is a handy booklet providing discounted, prepaid admission to a number of attractions, including museums and a Bay cruise. A seven-day Muni Passport, included in the CityPass, offers unlimited rides on cable cars (regularly $5 one way), streetcars ($1.50 per ride) and buses ($1.50 per ride). One-day and three-day Muni Passports can also be purchased, and are absolutely worth the money. These passes and a wealth of local information are available at the Visitor Information Center at 900 Market St., near the cable car turnaround at Powell and Market Streets.
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The city has a vast selection of hotels, inns, and bed and breakfasts from which to choose. Many are in the Union Square area, convenient for shopping, dining and the famous cable cars. For an ultimate “green” San Francisco experience, try the Orchard Garden Hotel, which is as lavish as it is eco-conscious. For straightforward luxury, try the Four Seasons San Francisco on the eastern end of Market Street near the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Yerba Buena Gardens and the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market. Those looking for a hipper experience might try Ian Shrager's Clift Hotel, home of the famous Redwood Room and a choice spot for visiting celebs. The modern Hotel Vitale on the Embarcadero offers sweeping views of the Bay, and is just across the street from the Ferry Building Marketplace. And the new InterContinental San Francisco is a towering monolith in South of Market, close to Moscone Center, with posh amenities and floor-to-ceiling windows.
DAY 1
Duck just outside the comfort zone of Union Square to quirky Dottie's True Blue Café, one of the city's favorite haunts for gourmet baked goods, omelets and other heaping breakfasts. The neighborhood is a bit seedy, but don't worry: join the line and wait your turn—it's well worth it—then spend the morning walking off your morning feast around the waking bustle of Union Square.
Where the wide street hits the Bay, looms the giant, white clock of San Francisco's iconic Ferry Building, home of the famous Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market. Since its renovation in 2003, the Ferry Building has become a Mecca for local produce and artisanal products—it is a requisite destination, especially for local foodies.
The building is loaded with a variety of permanent food stalls, specialty restaurants and shops. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays (the day of the biggest market), chefs and locals descend on the grand outdoor market to browse the best in fresh produce. Join them and pick up some warm bread, California cheese, fresh fruit and a bottle of local wine. Waterfront benches offer calm, glorious views of the Bay Bridge and hills of Berkeley and Oakland. Or a range of restaurants such as the local favorite Hog Island Oyster Company offers table service both inside and out.
Then wind your way to the end of California Street and hop on one of the city's fabled cable cars. If this is your first visit to the city, ask the cable car operator to help you switch cars towards Fisherman's Wharf, where bay views, street performers and colorful characters abound. See the sea lions at Pier 39, eat some Dungeness crab, take a Bay cruise or visit Alcatraz. For a truly unique brand of vintage fun, visit the Musée Mecanique housed in a warehouse on Pier 45. The vast collection of antique arcade games and fairground fortune-telling machines provides tons of quirky fun for a handful of coins.
Next, turn up Columbus Avenue and wander into North Beach, the city's zesty Italian neighborhood. A haven for Italian immigrants, Beat poets, jazz musicians and starving artists, the neighborhood boasts several live shows (not just the X-rated kind) including the always-popular Beach Blanket Babylon—be sure to book tickets well in advance for this famously irreverent musical. Stroll North Beach's many outdoor cafés, trattorias, bakeries and shops, and don't miss a visit to the famous City Lights Bookstore on Columbus at Broadway. For dinner, try Rose Pistola in North Beach, Perbacco closer to Market Street, or head back to the Ferry Building, the home of Slanted Door, one of the country's best-known spots for upscale Vietnamese cuisine.
Continue to Day 2 |
