To witness San Francisco’s famous fog roll from the Pacific Ocean across the urban landscape to the Bay is to experience a breathtaking natural wonder. In seconds, the city’s busiest thoroughfares and narrowest alleyways are hushed and blanketed in mist, and a metropolis of thousands is transformed into a mystical, romantic dream world.
Then the fog lifts, and San Francisco’s bright colors, distinctive architectural peaks and lush parks are revealed in high relief. From the soaring tip of the Transamerica Pyramid to the majestic “International Orange” span of the Golden Gate Bridge, the area’s eye-popping panoramas can be almost overwhelming. But for its sweeping vistas and bustle of countless cultures, San Francisco is actually a very manageable city, and 72 hours offers plenty of time to explore its many charms.
You really don’t need to rent a car for a stay in San Francisco itself. Use the cable cars, buses and taxis to get around the city, and mass transit if you’re going to the suburbs. If you’re planning to cross the Golden Gate Bridge and explore wine country (and we recommend it—see Tastings & Events), wait until you’re ready to leave town to rent a car. You will save a considerable amount in rental and parking fees (and headaches—parking in the city can be exasperating). Also, it’s important to remember to bring comfortable walking shoes and at least one warm sweater or medium jacket; San Francisco is best explored on foot, and the weather can turn chilly at the strangest times of day and at the most illogical times of year. As Mark Twain was (mistakenly) believed to have said, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco,” so don’t let the “sunny California” reputation fool you.
First, check into two kinds of passes to cut your sightseeing costs and eliminate some of the hassles of standing in line for tickets. The CityPass is a handy booklet providing discounted, prepaid admission to a number of attractions, including museums and a Bay cruise. A seven-day Muni Passport, included in the CityPass, offers unlimited rides on cable cars, streetcars and buses. One-day and three-day Muni Passports can also be purchased separately. These passes and a wealth of local information are available at the Visitor Information Center at 900 Market St., near the cable car turnaround at Powell and Market Streets.
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The city has an outstanding selection of hotels, inns, and bed and breakfasts. Many are in the Union Square area, convenient to shopping, dining and the famous cable cars. For an ultimate “green” San Francisco experience, try the new Orchard Garden Hotel, which is as lavish and comfortable as it is eco-conscious. For straightforward luxury, try the Four Seasons San Francisco on the eastern end of Market Street near the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Yerba Buena Gardens and the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market. Those looking for a hipper experience might try Ian Shrager’s Clift Hotel, home of the famous Redwood Room and a choice spot for visiting celebrities, located on the opposite side of Union Square. The modern Hotel Vitale on the Embarcadero offers sweeping views of the Bay, and is just across the street from the Ferry Building Marketplace.
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Duck just outside the comfort zone of Union Square to quirky Dottie’s True Blue Café, one of the city’s favorite haunts for gourmet baked goods, omelets and other heaping breakfasts. The neighborhood is a bit seedy, but don’t worry: join the line and wait your turn—it’s well worth it—then spend the morning walking off your morning feast around the waking bustle of Union Square.
Next, look east down Market Street: where the wide street hits the Bay looms the giant, white clock of San Francisco’s iconic Ferry Building, home of the famous Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays (the day of the biggest market), the grand outdoor market of farm-fresh produce and artisanal food products offers a quintessential California experience. The Ferry Building itself is loaded with a variety of permanent food stalls, specialty restaurants and shops. Pick up some artisan bread, California cheese, fresh fruit and a bottle of local wine. Outside, waterfront benches offer calm, glorious views of the Bay Bridge and the hills of Berkeley and Oakland; an impressive range of restaurants such as the local favorite Hog Island Oyster Company offer table service both inside and out.
Sated once more, wind your way to the end of California Street and hop on one of the city’s fabled cable cars. Tourist traffic is lighter here than at the Powell Street turnaround, and you should get a terrific seat. Grab a pole, hang off the side and hold on tight! San Francisco hills are extremely steep. Even rollercoaster lovers are sure to get butterflies in their stomachs. Be sure to pack your CityPass (otherwise the ride is $5 one way) and ask the cable car driver where to transfer for Fisherman’s Wharf. He’ll show you how to switch cable cars on Powell Street.
Once over the hill, jump off and enjoy the Bay views and colorful characters of Fisherman’s Wharf. See the sea lions at Pier 39, eat some Dungeness crab, take a Bay cruise, visit Alcatraz (be sure to book a tour in advance) or turn up Columbus Avenue to enjoy a walking tour of North Beach. Mangia! North Beach is a historical, gastronomical, and cultural tour led by resident foodie GraceAnn Walden on Saturdays, including stops for local sausage, Focaccia and chocolate. Visitors learn why Italians came to this neighborhood, how they lived and what they ate. (The $80 tour, which includes lunch, begins at 10 a.m.) North Beach is also a great place to wander on your own, with its many outdoor cafes, trattorias, bakeries and shops (don’t miss a visit to the famous City Lights Bookstore on Columbus at Broadway).
For dinner try one of the city’s signature California/Mediterranean restaurants, Zuni Café. The popular spot offers two levels of window-side dining on Market Street. Try a crisp pizza, roast chicken for two and a plate from their outstanding cheese selection. Or head back to the Ferry Building for dinner at Slanted Door, one of the country’s best-known spots for upscale Vietnamese cuisine—but try to book well in advance. For those craving some classic San Francisco seafood, visit the old-school Tadich Grill for specialties like cioppino, sand dabs and Petrale Sole.
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