Santa Barbara is no secret. From Croatia to Cameroon (where a neighborhood in the capital city was named for it), this place is the poster child for the California good life, a coastal catwalk where the wine flows and the weather is laughably ideal. Indeed, the grandeur of Santa Barbara is one of its few downfalls, as an insular quality accompanies life in the Utopian bubble. But to be sure, this is a town with much to be smug about.
The city center is a whitewashed and red-tiled fantasy of Spanish-style architecture. Crisp ocean breezes mingle with warm Mediterranean air as it filters through the canyons connecting wine country and coast. Flowers bloom year-round. Even the traffic, unlike L.A.'s smog-choked study in chaos, can be taken as a low-speed cruise through paradise: the Pacific Ocean with dreamy silhouettes of the Channel Islands on one side of the freeway, downtown and a sprinkling of hillside homes tucked into the lee of the Santa Ynez Mountains on the other.
Founded by the Spanish in the late 18th century, the city was rebuilt in 1925, following an earthquake. Home to a major university, high-tech businesses and the cultural offerings of a major metropolis, Santa Barbara, with only 92,000 inhabitants, is the rare place that actually deserves its moniker: "The American Riviera."
Lodging is plentiful, with more than 170 choices. For small hotels, two of the best are The Simpson House Inn and the Upham Hotel, lovingly decorated with pretty antiques and New England charm. The Upham has the added benefit of Louie's, an elegant California bistro that's among the city's finest restaurants. In the heart of downtown you'll find Inn of the Spanish Garden, a 23-room luxury boutique hotel located on a quiet side street in the Historic Presidio District. With its classic Spanish-Mediterranean style, the Inn evokes an idealized old Santa Barbara of dashing dons and dark-eyed señoritas. The five-story Canary Hotel with a popular rooftop city-view bar is another good choice. Close to the waterfront, Hotel Oceana and Santa Barbara Inn are other cheerful places to rest one's head.
In nearby Montecito, luxurious accommodations come in the form of the Four Seasons Resort, the Biltmore and San Ysidro Ranch, both owned by Beanie Baby billionaire Ty Warner. "The Ranch" (as locals refer to the San Ysidro Ranch), is where John and Jackie Kennedy spent part of their honeymoon. A stay at the Biltmore entitles guests to dine at the adjacent Tydes Restaurant & Bar, which is otherwise open exclusively to members of the private Coral Casino Beach & Cabana Club. Up the coast, movie stars may be spotted from time to time at the Bacara Resort & Spa. The resort contains 78 beachfront acres and a two-mile white sand beach, three pools, and offers yacht or catamaran excursions. Although the mega-resort is located in Goleta, about ten miles north of downtown, the short drive is worth the location above the Pacific Ocean.
SANTA BARBARA ITINERARY: DAY
1
Start the day with breakfast downtown. At D'Angelo, a German baker turns out hearty and delicious breads, and Tupelo Junction Café is popular for its pumpkin-oatmeal waffles and brioche French toast. Whatever your choice, be well fueled before exploring downtown and taking in some of the many architectural landmarks. Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes and take your camera. Santa Barbara Walking Tours unveil "everyday art" hidden in the urban landscape: down winding paseos and in busy shopping plazas. Local guides point out subtle artwork that adds to the city's unique character.
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| El Presidio |
For an overview of the city's history, stop in at the Santa Barbara Historical Museum, housed in a handsome adobe building with a picturesque courtyard. Nearby are two of the oldest landmarks: Casa de la Guerra, the original home of Santa Barbara's early founders (eighth- and ninth-generation descendants of the family remain active in local cultural, civic and historic activities) and El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park. Founded in 1782, the Royal Presidio was the last in a chain of four military fortresses built by the Spanish along the coast of Alta California to protect settlers from Indian attacks and foreign invasion.
Within walking distance are many architectural gems built after the 1925 earthquake. One of the most famous architects was George Washington Smith, who popularized the Spanish Colonial Revival style, the signature look of this red-tile-roofed town. Three of his buildings are noteworthy: The Lobero Theatre, the Santa Barbara News-Press building in De la Guerra Plaza and the charming Meridien Studios on De la Guerra Street.
Architecturally, the city's most famous downtown draw is the Santa Barbara County Courthouse — a Spanish-Moorish concoction of turrets, tiles and spiral staircases, designated a National Historic Landmark. Built in 1929, it's framed by lush tropical gardens and a sunken garden. Be sure to climb to the top of the 85-foot clock tower for spectacular views of the town and coastline.
If you want to delve deeper into the city's history, sign up for walking Architectural Tours of Historic Santa Barbara, which last an hour to an hour and a half.
Tours take place on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Saturday tours focus on pre-1925 architecture, before a large earthquake reshaped the city. Sunday tours explore post-1925 architecture. Following the 1925 earthquake, Santa Barbara ruled that no building could be constructed more than three stories high. (For further information, contact the Architectural Foundation of Santa Barbara at 805-965-6307). A free, self-guided red-tile tour map is also available at the Courthouse Visitors Desk as well as at the Santa Barbara Visitors Center.
Downtown State Street and its environs is a great place to have lunch. For stellar views of the Santa Barbara County Courthouse, dine on the patio at Elements. Arts & Letters Café is located across the street from the Santa Barbara Museum of Art, and Opal Restaurant & Bar adjoins the delightful Arlington Theater. Any of these terrific restaurants also make fine dinner choices.
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| Santa Barbara Museum of Art |
Walk off your lunch with a stroll on State Street, and visit the open-air Paseo Nuevo mall where you'll find all the usual suspects, including Nordstrom, Victoria's Secret and chain movie theaters. For a twist on the mall experience, go to the second level, reached via elevator or a pretty tiled stairway, to view cutting-edge contemporary art at the Contemporary Arts Forum. Theater productions take place at Center Stage Theatre across the way. Be sure to visit El Paseo — a charming, store-lined pedestrian passage from the 1920s that may well have been California's first shopping mall. Its gurgling fountains and wrought iron gates evoke the Old World, but everything from urban contemporary clothing to haute couture and stylish boutiques can be found here.
A perfect way to end the day is to take a short drive to one of the city's most photographed sites: Mission Santa Barbara. Known as the "Queen of the Missions," it was founded in 1786 by Spanish Franciscan friars who aimed to Christianize the Chumash Indians. The striking twin-towered structure is still used by the Franciscan order that founded it. Nearby, the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History delights youngsters with its wildlife dioramas, while the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden waits just up the road for nature lovers.
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Roosterfish Room at Seagrass Restaurant |
To really experience Santa Barbara's "Riviera" ambiance, drive along winding, scenic Alameda Padre Serra Road near the mission. This hillside is called the Riviera section of town. The region's cultural highlight is The Riviera Theater, once part of the old Santa Barbara College before it moved west and became the University of California at Santa Barbara. The theater screens foreign language and art films and has a devoted band of regulars.
The city offers a multitude of restaurant choices for dinner. One of the most interesting new eateries is Julienne, where chef-owner Justin West puts a creative spin on the locavore movement. For a contemporary approach to seafood, don't miss The Hungry Cat.
Seagrass Restaurant offers topnotch seafood in a more elegant setting.
Our top picks for Italian food include
Olio e Limoneor Ca'Dario; a casual atmosphere with equally good food can be had at Olio Pizzeria. Great culinary choices for California Wine Country cuisine include bouchon Santa Barbara and Wine Cask, which was closed for a spell but reopened better than ever. We also like Elements for its range of flavors and fun bar scene (you can eat in the bar, too). If you want a lively atmosphere without the mingling singles, go to The Palace Grill where the entire staff breaks into song and invites guests to sing along. For excellent regional cuisine in a more subdued setting, try the Stonehouse, located at the San Ysidro Ranch in Montecito.
Continue
to Day 2 |
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