Santa Barbara Wine Country and
Santa Ynez Valley, California

Cambria Winery

Santa Barbara's beaches and downtown Cultural District receive the lion's share of attention from visitors, but just over the rugged Santa Ynez Mountains a different world awaits. From atop the San Marcos Pass, a mere 20-minute drive from the Waterfront, the Santa Ynez Valley spreads out as the ocean and islands disappear in the rearview mirror. Coastal moisture gives way to a dry, chaparral-scented breeze, and gnarled oaks mix incongruously with ruler-straight rows of grape vines. The east-west orientation of the mountains, however, allows coastal fog to filter through the valley—making this one of the coolest viticultural areas in California. The extended time on the vine allowed by this climate helps develop the acids, flavors and tannins needed to produce wines of distinctive character.

Even before the movie Sideways sent would-be oenophiles swarming to the Santa Ynez Valley (where the film takes place), the heart of the Santa Barbara wine country was already a bourgeoning wine-growing area. Once home to just a handful of vineyards, it has come into its own and now boasts more than 100 wineries (primarily in the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria valleys, located 35 miles north of Santa Barbara)—and it keeps on growing. Keep in mind that its winemaking history dates back more than 200 years: Father Junipero Serra was the first to plant vine cuttings he brought with him from Mexico in 1782.

Even if you're not a wine lover, you'll enjoy the soothing landscape. In addition, you'll find fine restaurants, charming inns, unique boutiques, art galleries and tiny museums, as well as an Indian casino and a cowboy saloon tucked into the scenic countryside. Recreational options range from golf and horseback riding to hang-gliding and hiking trails, while scenic country roads offer a great setting for bike rides. Cachuma Lake provides boating activities and birding tours. And while driving from tasting room to tasting room is the most popular pastime, there is plenty to be savored between sips.

Four towns dot the valley map: Ballard, Santa Ynez, Solvang and Los Olivos. Each has a distinct character and flavor. Buellton, located where Highway 101 converges with State Highway 246, is the northern gateway into the valley. Los Alamos, although considered part of the valley, is actually up the road. (For navigation purposes, the suggestions here use Santa Barbara as the point of departure.)

Alisal Guest Ranch

There's a wide range of places to stay in the vicinity, particularly in the tourist stronghold of Solvang. The more upscale lodging choices include The Ballard Inn (in Ballard), Santa Ynez Inn (in Santa Ynez), Fess Parker' s Wine Country Inn & Spa (Los Olivos) and The Wine Valley Inn & Cottages (Solvang). The Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort is a world unto itself, with golf courses (one open to non-guests), horseback riding and fly-fishing on Alisal Lake. Gamblers might prefer to stay at The Chumash Casino Resort Hotel & Spa, but its overblown architecture doesn't offer the charm of the cozy "wine country" inns that cater to tourists interested in a more laid back experience.

If you're serious about tasting, it's wise to have a designated driver. Plan to bring along a picnic on at least one of your tasting adventures. Organized wine outings, such as the "seriously fun and educational" tours led by Breakaway Tours & Event Planning let visitors enjoy the scenery, sip the wine and leave the driving to someone else.

Whatever your plans, be sure to pick up free area maps at one of the Visitors' Centers or by contacting The Santa Barbara County Vintners' Association. Tasting room hours and days of operation vary, although many are open from 10 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. daily, and all are open on weekends.

DAY 1

Begin your journey to the Santa Ynez Valley by taking Highway 154 from Santa Barbara up and over the San Marcos Pass. Be sure to stop for breakfast (weekends only), lunch or dinner on your way in or out of the Santa Ynez Valley at the historic, rustic and charming Cold Spring Tavern, a former 19th-century stagecoach stop located just off the highway. The turn-off to Stagecoach Road is marked—it's just after the mountain crests and before you cross Cold Spring Bridge.

Rustic Cold Spring Tavern

Continue on and you will pass closer to Cachuma Lake, a popular recreation area for camping, boating and fishing. The 3,250-acre body of water and its seven-mile-long shore are home to deer, blue heron and even resident eagles, depending on the time of year. Boat tours are offered year round for bird and wildlife watching.

Take the turn-off signed for Santa Ynez and Solvang for the first glimpse of pretty rows of grapevines at Gainey Vineyard, where you should stop and visit one of the valley's long-established wineries. The tiny Santa Ynez Airport is nearby; offering glider plane rides for brave souls. Continue on and you'll soon reach the exit to the Western-style town of Santa Ynez. If you haven't had breakfast, and want to hear the valley gossip, The Longhorn coffee shop is the local hangout. If you want to hold off on breakfast until you reach Solvang, consider a Danish pastry at Olsen's Danish Village Bakery, or for a full breakfast head to Paula' s Pancake House, a delightful spot to nibble on wafer-thin Danish pancakes while watching the world go by, which happens rather slowly in this neck of the woods.

You'll find several tasting rooms in Santa Ynez as well as charming shops. Learn about valley history at the Santa Ynez Historical Museum and don't miss the world's smallest library next door. One unique stop is Artiste, a salon/tasting venue where you may discover local artists at work or Artiste wine label artist Christina Lo Cascio painting with wine—yes, wine—in the art studio that fronts the tasting room. Created as a community gathering place for creative souls, this space was inspired by the salon of French impressionist Claude Monet. Don't miss lunch at Trattoria Grappolo, an area favorite run by two handsome brothers from Italy. Here you can literally rub elbows with local winemakers and celebs if you eat at the bar overlooking the kitchen. Be sure to try the pumpkin ravioli and the stuffed calamari as well as other traditional favorites. Don't miss the homemade tiramisu—you'll think you've died and gone to Italy. Locals also rave about the salads at another popular local lunch spot, The Vineyard House. Go for the beer-battered chicken and Gorgonzola salad.

If you feel guilty about indulging at lunch, you might want to work it off with a guided bicycle tour led by Santa Barbara Wine Country Cycling Tours. Offered are half-day, full-day and self-guided tours of the picturesque countryside, and even a strenuous Figueroa Mountain Hill climb following a route where U.S. Tour de France seven-time champion Lance Armstrong trained. Picnic lunches and wine-tasting after your ride are part of the open-air experience.

Solvang

On to Solvang, the self-proclaimed "Danish Capital of America." With a population of only 4,500, Solvang takes the word "quaint" to new heights. How else to describe a village filled with enchanting windmills, gift shops and a preternaturally friendly populace? A place where the air is scented with an intoxicating blend of Danish baked goods and fresh flowers. The town was founded in 1910 by Danish Americans from the Midwest who bought 9,000 acres here (the name means "sunny field") to establish an ethnic colony and folk school.

Some people love the kitschy atmosphere while others run in the opposite direction from the gingerbread architecture, cobblestone streets and overload of souvenir shops—more than 200. But persevere and you will find treats here—including such rare culinary delights as the Danish-style sweet popovers called aebleskivers, great toy stores and several shops with thousands of quilts for sale. If you're really feeling the Danish spirit, the Honen (Danish for "little hen") provides an incomparable way to explore Solvang. This replica of a 1915 streetcar is pulled around town for 20 minutes by a handsome pair of blond Belgian draft horses. Visit the Elverhoj Museum of History and Art to learn more about Solvang's Danish heritage.

Mission Santa Inés

Winemaking has added an element of sophistication to Solvang, and for many visitors nowadays, it's the town's main draw. Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards has a display case full of medals and awards as well as gifts, T-shirts and a children's table with toys and books to entertain wee ones while parents sip. Fans of red wine should seek out Stolpman as well as the Presidio Winery Tasting Room—where the assistant winemaker poured with grape-stained hands during our visit—and the oldest tasting room in town, Alisal Cellars. If you want to enjoy a full glass, try the hip Cabana Tasting Room & Wine Bar, which has a wonderful range of wines from both local vintners and other regions. Solvang has several wine-tasting rooms, making it easy to sample the variety of area vintages without having to worry about drinking and driving.

Even if you resist heading for the heart of California 's little ersatz Copenhagen, stop by to tour the Mission Santa Inés on the way into Solvang. Part of the historic chain of California missions founded by Father Junipero Serra, this beautiful old Catholic church is rich with history and offers daily masses at 8 a.m.

Solvang is also home to several offbeat museums, including the Solvang Motorcycle Museum, Hans Christian Andersen Museum (located upstairs in The Book Loft, a great bookstore) and the very charming Elverhoj Museum of History and Art. If you want to go easy on your feet, you'll easily spot opportunities to rent a surrey cycle (rates start at around $20) and peddle your way around town.

Notable past and present residents of Santa Ynez include David Crosby, Bo Derek, the late Ronald Reagan and Michael Jackson, whose famed Neverland is one of the largest ranch properties in Santa Ynez.

For a casual lunch, stop at The Chef's Touch, owned by Chef Kurt Alldredge, who also teaches cooking classes. Panino, which also has an outpost in Los Olivos, offers tasty sandwiches.

Instead of staying in Solvang until dinnertime, head to Santa Ynez or Ballard. If you're in the mood for some action, nightlife in the valley can be raucous at The Maverick Saloon. Every Thursday and Friday night, the live music is guaranteed to get any one on the dance floor. More cultured prospects include critically acclaimed productions at Solvang's PCPA Theaterfest, which in summer stages performances at the Solvang Festival Theater—a unique 700-seat open air facility that's become a cultural landmark in the Santa Ynez Valley. Across the street from the outdoor theater there's also Kabuki, a small, cheerful spot for Japanese food—a welcome change of pace from the Danish diversions.

You can enjoy a quiet dinner at The Ballard Inn & Restaurant in nearby Ballard (Wed-Sun. only). This charming inn with roses surrounding a white picket fence has rooms without phones or TVs—and noteworthy cuisine. A wine-tasting room showcases some of the lesser-known yet admired valley winemakers including Curran, Lane Tanner, Vandale, Arcadian and Carhartt.

Continue to Day 2

*Santa Barbara Wine Country image courtesy of Santa Barbara CVB

(Updated: 02/28/08 AK)