Local farmers, winemakers and others with robust appetites frequent Ellen's Danish Pancake House in Buellton, a bit off the tourist track but with portions so huge you will be well fortified for your day ahead. Plan to spend your day exploring the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail. Pick up picnic supplies before you head out — sandwiches at Los Olivos Grocery or Panino — and don't forget to pack a corkscrew.
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| Foxen's Tinaquaic Vineyard |
The nineteen winery tasting rooms on the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail range from low-key (Foxen) to glitzy (Fess Parker), and each has a distinctive personality. The trail is roughly divided into two regions, or AVAs (American Viticultural Areas): the upper Santa Maria Valley AVA (known for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and other Burgundy-style wines) and the Santa Ynez Valley AVA (known for Rhône varietals).
A favorite stop is the funky, tin-roofed tasting room of Foxen Winery. A makeshift altar that includes mislabeled wine bottles, various trophies, plastic nun dolls, candles and wacky photos lets visitors know this is not your corporate winery. Bob Dylan may be blasting on the stereo. Other nearby wineries worth visiting include Zaca Mesa, Bedford and Firestone.
A nice place to picnic is Rancho Sisquoc, a 37,000-acre historic working cattle ranch and winery. Sisquoc means resting place in the language of the indigenous Chumash tribe, and we think this is one of the prettiest resting places for a picnic. The property, originally part of an 1852 land grant, includes the historic San Ramon Chapel, and the entrance is a scenic reminder of old California. Visitors enter via a country dirt lane, barely wide enough for two vehicles, that passes cattle guards, tractors and fields.
After an afternoon of tasting, you'll probably be in the mood for a good dinner. Unless you make reservations far in advance, don't expect to get a table at The Hitching Post II on a weekend — since all the Sideways publicity, it has been booked solid months in advance. This is basically a steak-and-potato place. Owner Frank Ostini can often be found flipping steaks on the grill, wearing his signature pith helmet and perhaps even pouring his award-winning wines.
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| Wine Cellar at Mattei's Tavern |
Brothers Restaurant at Mattei's Tavern, a restaurant owned by two brothers and located in an historic stagecoach stop, is always bustling. Dine either in the garden room with its red velvet-flocked wallpaper or the dining room (our favorite) from which you can watch the chef at work in the busy kitchen.
For more information, contact the Santa Barbara Conference & Visitors Bureau and Film Commission, 800-676-1266, 805-966-9222, www.santabarbaraCA.com or the Santa Ynez Valley Visitors Association, www.santaynezvalleyvisit.com, 800-742-2843.
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(Updated: 02/16/12 NW)
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