São
Paulo, Brazil
São
Paulo
The
Nerve Center of South America
By
André Gayot |
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DAY
2
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Figueira
Rubaiyat: A Restaurant
Under a Giant Fig Tree |
In
1947, São Paulo proudly inaugurated what is considered
the most important museum of Western art in all of South
America: the São Paulo Art Museum.
It boasts paintings by El Greco, Goya, Botticelli, Tintoretto,
Rembrandt, Turner and Gainsborough, but the true gem
is its large collection of Impressionists comprising
many superb pieces by Modigliani, Renoir, Manet, Monet,
Degas, Van Gogh and Picasso. After taking in the art,
including Brazilian painting by the great master Cândido
Portinari, relax in the cafeteria on the first floor.
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The
Old São Paulo |
Paulista
is one of the chic, if not the chicest, quarters of
Sampaul. Fancy boutiques attract shoppers at the feet
of opulent condos graced with marble lobbies and stairs,
reflecting the wealth of the Paulisto financial and
industrial elite. Not surprisingly, it’s also
the location of one of the most spectacular restaurants
of the city: Figueira Rubaiyat. Its
tables are sheltered by a giant fig tree (figueira)
under which a Plexiglas roof is cooled off by sprinklers
when necessary. An open kitchen complements this theatrical
setting, where swarms of uniformed waiters serve seafood
such as well-prepared ceviche, as well as meat in portions
that will please carnivores.
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The
New São Paulo |
Another
ritzy quarter is Morumbi on the East
Side harboring the exclusive Jockey Club in the Palacio
dos Bandeirantes, the seat of the state government.
But for the masses, Morumbi means soccer, for it is
the location of one of the major stadiums of Brazil,
Estadio Cicero Pompeu de Toledo, where the Brazilian
world stars of this ever so popular sport delight crowds
in an arena that can seat 80,000 fans.
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Casa
da Fazenda was a
Coffee Plantation |
Also
in Morumbi, Casa da Fazenda, a former
coffee plantation with slaves’ quarter and chapel,
has been restored and turned into a restaurant surrounded
by gardens planted with the trees of Brazil, such as
jacarandas, îpes, resedas, mango, avocado and
blue blackberry (jaboticabeira). Paintings are displayed
for sale in a craft shop, convenient for shopping after
dinner. In the vast bill of fare, the lamb chops are
renowned. Shadows of the past may appear in your imagination
as you dine on the veranda.
The
Awakening of the Colossus
Despite
impressive statistics—Brazil is the
fifth largest country in the world with
a population increase of one million souls
every year---the “sleeping giant”
label sticks. But it’s certain that
the stalwart will wake up someday. The question
is when? Why not now? Sure enough, Brazil
has been mired by political instability
and weak governments incapable of implementing
consistent and adequate policies. With double-digit
inflation per day, the local currency (named
the Cruzeiro) had less value than
the paper on which it was printed, rendering
foreign investment impossible and economic
development problematic. Though still high,
inflation has largely subsided. The new
money, the Real, has become a reality. Depreciation
is only, if one can say, 15% per
year. A moderate, left-oriented, democratically
elected government promotes a reasonably
balanced economic policy.
While
production in Brazil is still based on agriculture,
with its large and notorious exportation
of coffee, cane sugar and soy beans, it
is also more diversified with a surging
automotive industry. Brazil is now the fifth
largest world producer of cars and experiences
remarkable forays into the hi-tech sector,
beginning with a very successful aerospace
sector (45% of the world regional jets market),
cellular phones and computer software. Bordering
nine of the eleven South American states,
Brazil is the economic leader of the region. |
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