Since 1969, restaurant, hotel, travel & other witty reviews by a handpicked, worldwide team of discerning professionals—and your views, too.

São Paulo, Brazil

São Paulo
The Nerve Center of South America
By André Gayot

Dolls are Calling Customers to Browse Inside the Many Shops of Embú

DAY 3

Once preoccupied with the progress and the success of the Brazilian industrial revolution that was born here, Sampaul now takes great care to preserve what remains from its past. Even if not much of the bygone era is left among the high rises that have replaced the mansions on Paulista Avenue, everything is being done to save what still exists in Embú, located an hour-and-a-half drive south of Sampaul. The legend goes that 450 years ago a priest named Belchior de Pontes ventured to this plateau to found a Jesuit school, but got lost in the forest. He was saved by an Indian who disappeared only to be found lying dead while a big snake was watching him. The snake was named "M'boy" in the Guarani language, which was transformed into Embú. A chapel was erected and later a church. Around its steeple, the village is composed of a square and three parallel cobblestone-paved streets, making it easy to browse the goods, stones, wood carvings, paintings and woven objects presented by the artisans. On the square, artists carve or paint. The whole idea is to make of Embú a Brazilian haven for artists, where this historical and a bit legendary environment will inspire them. It’s the reason why Embú was renamed Embú das Artes.

Old Houses in Embú Retain the Charm of the Past

For lunch, Garimpo serves Brazilian specialties like the famous feijoada, the best in town, an assorted platter of thinly sliced meats, such as sausages, pig’s feet and ears, beef and smoked tongue, accompanied by side dishes of rice and black beans, collard greens, hearts of palm, orange slices and hot pepper. In the bar preceding the restaurant, jazz and bossa nova are played by the best local bands.

Back in Sampaul, a walk around the Sonesta is a good way to perceive what life is like in the Moema area. In these relatively quiet streets, there’s an abundance of restaurants and bars open late, some into the wee hours. Music is played at Dona Flor, and you can have a bite and a draft beer or a Caipirinha de Cachaça (lime juice with Cachaça, a variety of rum). Every other store in Moema seems to be a shoe store. Prices are very attractive, especially at ShoeStock, a supermarket devoted to pumps only. Shopping here with the local ladies who line up to buy the latest novelties is more fun than shopping at the neighboring modern marble mall.

Tabu in the Sonesta is a notable addition to the Sampaul restaurant scene that should not be overlooked. In a cool, sleek setting under a high ceiling, young Brazilian chef Mauricio Ganzarolli offers a menu where he uses local ingredients, adding a personal exotic touch without excess. The palm hearts are seconded by garlic foam, the shrimps find a natural companion with, of course, tomatoes but also mangoes; and bananas are cooked in a coconut and lemongrass sauce. The combinations work, paving the road for boneless quail and watercress sprouts. It’s a delightful and refined way to remind us of the diversity of Sampaul in all areas where culture and knowledge are involved.

An Airline on the Cutting Edge

Targeting the goal to prioritize safety and comfort, the newest and most modern airline in Brazil, TAM, has grown to operate 53 state-of-the-art aircrafts (including the latest Airbus 330 and Fokkers) since its inception in 1961. It is now listed as one of the top ten most admired companies in Brazil by the Brazilian press.

TAM offers cutting-edge air technology as well as creature comforts not found on most flights today. On the A 330, there are only ten rows in business class allowing each seat to recline to 180 degrees and become a real bed, which makes a huge difference. While many carriers have eliminated complimentary meals altogether, TAM provides three meal selections for Economy Class, four for Business and five for First on its international flights. As far as entertainment is concerned, all passengers are given the same control over movie-watching as they have at home. Passengers watch the latest films on individual television screens that are twice the size we have been used to so far, with a remote control that allows you to pause and resume the movie at will.

TAM operates a comprehensive domestic network and serves the US and Europe with non-stop daily flights to Paris and Miami.

Check out TAM’s Brazil Airpass offered exclusively for purchase outside of Brazil. www.tamairlines.com


WHERE TO SEE & DO

Embú das Artes
Rua Andronico dos Prazeres Goncalves, 114
Centro
Embu
São Paulo
4785-3500
www.embu.sp.gov.br

Park Ibirapuera
Av. Pedro Alvares cabral
São Paulo
11-5574-5505

Modern Art Museum
Av. Pedro Alvares cabral
Portao 10 (Gate 10)
Ibirapuera
11-5549-9688

Ipiranga Museum/Paulista Museum
Praca da Independencia s/n
Ipiranga
011-215-4588
www.mp.usp.br

São Paulo Art Museum
Av. Paulista 1578
Cerqueira Cesar
11-3251-5644
www.masp.art.br

Tours of São Paulo
CVC Viagens
Rua Gertrudes de Lima 53 – 3º Andar.
Centro Santo André
São Paulo
11-2191-8753
Fax: 11-2191-84 81
www.cvc.com.br

WHERE TO SHOP

Galeria Arte Brasileira
AL. Lorena, 2163
São Paulo
11-3062-9452

ShoeStock
Av. Bem-te-vi, 221
São Paulo
5044-4513
www.shoestock.com.br

HOW TO GET THERE

TAM
888-2FLY-TAM
www.tam.com.br

 

(Updated: 06/09/09 HC)


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