São
Paulo, Brazil
São
Paulo
The
Nerve Center of South America
By
André Gayot |
|
|
Dolls
are Calling Customers to Browse Inside the Many
Shops of Embú |
DAY
3
Once
preoccupied with the progress and the success of the
Brazilian industrial revolution that was born here,
Sampaul now takes great care to preserve what remains
from its past. Even if not much of the bygone era is
left among the high rises that have replaced the mansions
on Paulista Avenue, everything is being done to save
what still exists in Embú, located
an hour-and-a-half drive south of Sampaul. The legend
goes that 450 years ago a priest named Belchior de Pontes
ventured to this plateau to found a Jesuit school, but
got lost in the forest. He was saved by an Indian who
disappeared only to be found lying dead while a big
snake was watching him. The snake was named "M'boy"
in the Guarani language, which was transformed into
Embú. A chapel was erected and later a church.
Around its steeple, the village is composed of a square
and three parallel cobblestone-paved streets, making
it easy to browse the goods, stones, wood carvings,
paintings and woven objects presented by the artisans.
On the square, artists carve or paint. The whole idea
is to make of Embú a Brazilian haven for artists,
where this historical and a bit legendary environment
will inspire them. It’s the reason why Embú
was renamed Embú das Artes.
|
Old
Houses in Embú Retain
the Charm of the Past |
For
lunch, Garimpo serves Brazilian specialties like the
famous feijoada, the best in town, an assorted platter
of thinly sliced meats, such as sausages, pig’s
feet and ears, beef and smoked tongue, accompanied by
side dishes of rice and black beans, collard greens,
hearts of palm, orange slices and hot pepper. In the
bar preceding the restaurant, jazz and bossa nova are
played by the best local bands.
Back
in Sampaul, a walk around the Sonesta is a good way to perceive what life is like in the Moema
area. In these relatively quiet streets, there’s
an abundance of restaurants and bars open late, some
into the wee hours. Music is played at Dona Flor, and
you can have a bite and a draft beer or a Caipirinha
de Cachaça (lime juice with Cachaça,
a variety of rum). Every other store in Moema seems
to be a shoe store. Prices are very attractive, especially
at ShoeStock, a supermarket devoted to pumps only. Shopping
here with the local ladies who line up to buy the latest
novelties is more fun than shopping at the neighboring
modern marble mall.
Tabu in the Sonesta is a notable addition to the Sampaul
restaurant scene that should not be overlooked. In a
cool, sleek setting under a high ceiling, young Brazilian
chef Mauricio Ganzarolli offers a menu where he uses
local ingredients, adding a personal exotic touch without
excess. The palm hearts are seconded by garlic foam,
the shrimps find a natural companion with, of course,
tomatoes but also mangoes; and bananas are cooked in
a coconut and lemongrass sauce. The combinations work,
paving the road for boneless quail and watercress sprouts.
It’s a delightful and refined way to remind us
of the diversity of Sampaul in all areas where culture
and knowledge are involved.