Situated less than 90 miles from Los Angeles—30 miles closer than Santa Barbara's famed "Sideways" Wine Country—and just a hop-skip-and-a-jump from neighboring San Diego County, the Temecula Valley is an increasingly popular getaway.
The name Temecula comes from the Luiseño Indian word "Temecunga," meaning "where the sun shines through the mist." Because of its remote geography and hot summers, many believe the area is all desert. In fact, it's a more complex microclimate, surrounded by mountains reaching up to 11,000 feet, but like the desert, it can cool down by as much as 40 degrees overnight—and this is significant in the region's attractiveness as a viticultural area.
Temecula's modern day roots trace back to 1858, when the town became a stagecoach stop on the Butterfield Overland route. One year later, it established the first inland Southern California post office, and that is its birth-year immortalized on the inlayed steel and arches of modern day Old Town.
The first vines were planted in the late 1960s. By the mid-80s, there were a handful of wineries in the area; now there are more than 30. As the American appetite for vino increases, so do the number of vineyard restaurants and lodging at every price level.
Temecula is also experiencing booming business in destination weddings. Nearly every winery offers some level of nuptials package, and some can accommodate up to five weddings per weekend. In comparison to Napa or Sonoma, Temecula is a bargain—and the weather is much more predictable.
There is no "best-time" to visit. Summers are undoubtedly hot, but the vines are in full bloom. Harvest takes place between September and October. For cooler weather, consider visiting between November and April, but bear in mind that the vines will be barren during the winter. Year-round rainfall is essentially nil, but reaches its peak in February.
The county's largest annual event is the spectacular Temecula Valley Balloon & Wine Festival, which takes place in early June. Other popular events throughout the year include International Film & Music Festival in September and the Harvest Festival in October.
Throughout the year, non-oenophiles can also enjoy world-class golfing, scenic hot-air ballooning, indulgent spa treatments, gambling at an Indian mega casino, as well as camping, fishing and water sports at Lake Skinner.
As you enter Temecula off I-15, you'll head east about five miles past a stretch of housing complexes and upscale mini-malls, until you reach the wine country welcome sign.
Traversing wine country here is considerably easier than in many other regions, which tend to be more spread out. Temecula is essentially a giant oval, and a long weekend will give you a good overview. That said, it's best to map out a path that makes sense geographically to avoid doubling back and forth on busy Rancho California Road, which carries a highway-like 55 mile-per-hour speed limit—and also where sometimes you can't see the entry signs till you're past them.
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Inn at Churon Winery |
Many Temecula wines were developed for novice drinkers with a sweet tooth (e.g. Wilson Creek's almond Champagne, Falkner's Luscious Lips dessert wine, but there are serious wines, too. Highly recommended are mom-and-pop producer Palumbo, longtime vintners Hart and Bailey, as well as Leonesse.
For advice on tasting options and an area map, stop in at either the Temecula Valley Visitors Center in Old Town, open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (closed Tuesdays), or the Temecula Valley Wine Growers Association, open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Most tasting rooms are open between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. Some of the smaller ones require appointments, especially during the week.
If you're staying in wine country, there's a great range of options for a variety of budgets, from the family-run Castle Bed & Breakfast and Mission-style Loma Vista B&B to private "villas" among the vines at South Coast Winery or at the Tuscan-style Inn at Churon Winery. Closer to Old Town, you'll find more chain hotels.
DAY 1
If you're staying at a bed and breakfast, you'll likely enjoy a nice spread there. The Castle, for instance, puts out a lovely selection of cereal, fruit, coffee and other continental options.
You'll find that breakfast options are very limited. One of the best snacks on offer—and practically a tradition—is the sourdough baked-brie bread loaves at Maurice Car'rie. Buy one and enjoy it with one of their easy drinking whites or reds either on the wraparound Victorian porch or out on the ample picnic grounds.
Walkable sister winery La Cereza (that's "cherry," not "beer") is known for Spanish-style wines like Tempranillo and Grenache. The décor is also influenced by Cuban culture, down to pictures of longtime Havana icon Graciela, who adorns the "girlfriends"-label sweet Riesling. Guys love the cigar lounge in the back, open on weekends only.
After breakfast, start on Rancho California road, and hit the wineries furthest west before they get too busy. The first one along this stretch is Hart, one of the oldest in the Valley with continuous ownership. Owner and vintner Joe Hart planted the property in 1974. Inside the unassuming wooden structure, which doubles as his winemaking facility, a wall of ribbons is a testament to the family's accolades over the years. Hart is probably best known for his crisp Sauvingon Blanc, but also makes a really intense volcanic soil-grown Cabernet Sauvingon and Syrah.
Next, head south on Butterfield Stage for a stop at Briar Rose Winery, straight out of the fairy tale it was named for (Briar Rose is the proper name of "Sleeping Beauty"), with tastings available only by appointment. The experience is very upscale, and the couple who run the winery are the consummate hosts.
Now, get ready for a great eclectic-international lunch at the Falkner Winery's Pinnacle Restaurant. The orange dome-like structure houses a clean Italian design, with gleaming hardwood floors and gorgeous panoramic views. The menu features a range of tastes, from seared ahi and caprese salad to New Orleans-style blackened salmon and snickerdoodle pie. It's also a great time to experience Thornton's wines, particularly the popular Super-Tuscan style Amante.
Another great lunch option is Carol's Restaurant at Baily Winery. There's both indoor and outdoor seating, but the medieval motif replicated from the adjacent winery is best enjoyed from inside and is a great relief from the elements on particularly hot days. Baily's impressive wines feature prominently on the menu. Two top picks are the off-dry Riesling and the Meritage.
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Longshadow Ranch |
If you opt for lunch at Falkner, you're in a great location to hit two other wineries up Calle Contento (off of Ranch California) while you're up there. For a taste of the Old West, Longshadow Ranch offers a big meadow for picnics, live music on summer weekends—and kids get a kick out of the corralled Belgian draft horses. Don't forget to get your shot of whiskey barrel-aged Ponderosa Port.
Just across the street is Alex's Red Barn, where the Yakut Family has made the transition from exclusively growing for others to producing their own old-vine noble grapes. The setting literally is a red barn—be sure to try the solera-style sherry. Then head to Mount Palomar, just west on Rancho California, to try its signature sherry as well.
If you opt for lunch at Carol's, instead follow this route: Head back east on Rancho California to Miramonte. Known for their Rhone-style blends as much as their wine-bottle etching business, you'll have the opportunity to buy different labels with various rock-star decoration (rainbows of Rolling Stones lips logos, for instance).
For dinner, Thornton's Café Champagne restaurant offers a nice menu of traditional American favorites with a global fusion twist. Offerings include a generously portioned tapas plate, barbecued salmon and lamb sirloin.
Nearby Meritage restaurant at Callaway Winery features Mediterranean-inspired sharable plates and entrées like fritto misto, marinated olives and anchovies, duck confit and pan-roasted chicken with Proscuitto. Note: this isn't the same Callaway sold at convenience stores in magnums; these wines are only available at the estate. |
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