You'd be hard-pressed to find a Vancouverite born in this vibrant young city. Most everyone comes from somewhere else; urban nomads seduced by the natural setting. With breathtaking mountain and ocean views from every street corner, walking is a way of life and a pleasure as you crisscross old warehouse districts or bridges spanning ocean inlets. No wonder the city has become a popular location for countless film and TV productions from the U.S.A. and around the world. As the region prepares for the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver and Whistler, we can only imagine the diversity that will capture the spirit of the times.
Luring travelers for decades, the weather in this Pacific Northwest city is the mildest in all of Canada with a mean temperature of 50° F, thanks to warm ocean currents and major weather patterns that bring moist air in waves from the Pacific year-round. Higher elevations experience the precipitation as snow, which translates into fantastic skiing at three major ski areas: the Grouse, Cypress and Hollyburn Mountains. Lying less than 20 minutes from downtown, Grouse Mountain is accessible via Skyride Gondola for breathtaking views to the south of the lower mainland and Washington State's San Juan Islands. Or you can hike the Grouse Grind, a 1.8-mile long hiking trail winding from the foot of Grouse to the top. In winter, this is a popular ski resort during the day; night skiing (until 11 p.m.) is even more dramatic with city lights spread out and sparkling far below.
People visit and immigrate to Vancouver from everywhere, particularly from Asia, making the city's multi-cultural menus among the best in the world. Seafood from the Pacific Ocean was long the staple food of the coastal native peoples who thrived here, and Vancouver's modern residents value it just as much on their dining tables. The generous ocean yields succulent Dungeness crab, five species of wild salmon, and oysters in their freshest incarnations on the tables of the hippest restaurants in the city. If you want to experience fresh new culinary styles along with international and British Columbia wines in an outdoor paradise, paired with a sophisticated city environment and a liberal attitude, this urban metropolis has few equals. For the budget-minded diner, in mid-January and early February, Tourism Vancouver promotes Dine Out Vancouver, with $15, $25 and $35 three-course dinners at several of the city's top restaurants.
Vancouver is noted worldwide for its colorful and quaint neighborhoods such as Gastown, Chinatown, Yaletown and Granville Island. Its most famous sites include the world-class Vancouver Aquarium in Stanley Park, the Capilano Suspension Bridge, the Granville Island Public Market and Lions Gate Bridge. It's also known as an excellent walking city. Locals all seem to bike, run, rollerblade, skateboard, snowboard (on the nearby mountains), swim, sail, kayak, dive, climb and hike in droves. Better still, you can do as the natives do and experience another side of Vancouver by renting a mountain bike to tour various sites. For those who love boats, hop aboard an inexpensive water taxi or an Aquabus to zip from one area to another.
The range of hotels in Vancouver is wide, and many rank in the top tier. Visitors of all tastes and budgets should have no trouble finding quarters to their liking. Stellar accommodations can be found at the Opus Hotel, Pan Pacific, Pacific Palisades Hotel, The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, Fairmont Waterfront, and Sutton Place Hotel. Many fine smaller hotels, B&Bs, and motels are also available in all price categories.
DAY 1
Enjoy a continental breakfast at your hotel so you can have an early dim sum brunch in Chinatown (Hon's Wun Tun House opens at 11 a.m.) before heading off to discover Gastown. Begin your exploration along cobbled streets amid some of the city's oldest buildings. Gastown was where the city began in 1870, known then as Granville, before being annexed into Vancouver in 1886. According to legend, Captain John "Gassy Jack" Deighton, assisted by enthusiastic sawmill workers, built Gastown's Globe Saloon, the city's first, less than 24 hours after his arrival. The Globe became an instant hit and thus Vancouver's rich imbibing tradition was born and continues unabated.
A huge fire destroyed the Gastown area in 1886. As compensation, strong building codes replaced the old ways, which explains why many of the old, sturdy Victorian era buildings are still around. In 1971, Gastown was declared a heritage zone, forever protecting its grand stone buildings from the threat of demolition.
Today, the old warehouses and office buildings have been restored and refurbished. During summer and on weekends, streets bustle with visitors shopping for food, fashions and souvenirs of Canadian maple syrup and succulent wild Canadian smoked salmon. Some favorite finds include the Inuit Gallery, a showcase for northern native sculpture, prints and ceremonial masks; ModernKid, a high design shop for children and parents; and Button Button, an amusing shop specializing in colorful contemporary and vintage buttons. The famous Gastown steam clock at the corner of Water Street and Cambie Street also draws its share of visits. Yes, this clock emits real steam and toots every hour—making it one of the most photographed, albeit curious, sites in town.
Vancouver's Chinatown is a short cab ride east or a 15-minute walk from Gastown (be advised that the most direct route borders on the city's skid row district, which requires some street smarts to navigate). If you go, start your visit to Chinatown with a dim sum brunch at the original and inexpensive Hon's Wun Tun House on Keefer Street. After brunch, browse in packed-to-the-rafters shops along the neighborhood's frenzied streets, which rival Hong Kong with their aromas and crowds. Stores to check out include the original Ming Wo cookware shop, Cathay Importers, and the Peking Lounge. Visit the T & T Supermarket for a vast variety of Asian foods, and step into the Ten Ren Tea & Ginseng Company to discover exotic teas and tiny clay tea pots. Be sure to try a steamed bun, or bao, at one of the many bakeries. Various Chinese apothecaries have herbalists who can be consulted without an appointment. For a break from the masses, take the guided tour through the serene Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, the first Ming Dynasty-style classical garden created outside of China.
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Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Chinese Garden |
If you still haven't had enough of this bustling hub, return to this area after sunset for the Chinatown Night Market. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from the third weekend in May until September, there's a bustling open-air market from 6:30 p.m. until 11 p.m. around Main and Keefer Streets. Hunt for bargains, sample an exotic snack or have your fortune read.
Yaletown is one of Vancouver's most affluent and hip areas. Generally flat and easy to stroll, it's a trendy amalgam of upscale shops, high-rises and see-and-be-seen restaurants, cafés and bars. It's also where many Vancouver Canucks hockey players live—a mark of distinction hard to beat in Vancouver.
But Yaletown was not always as prosperous as it appears today. Its history, like other successful urban renewal projects, began in earnest in the late '80s and early '90s. By then, Vancouver's city fathers had recognized the potential of its fading brick buildings and warehouses, converting them into fashionable offices, shops and condos. Art galleries proliferated and snazzy restaurants soon began popping up on every block. One of the most interesting is Urban Fare, the slickest supermarket in the city and the only one where you can sip wine with your crab cakes. Whether you want Kobe beef, must select from 180 varieties of cheeses, or simply have to buy a $100 square-shaped watermelon (we kid you not!), Urban Fare is just your place. It's a hip, attractive resource for breakfast, lunch and dinner—for take-away or eat-in. While the store bakes its own breads, it also brings in $100 loaves of sourdough rye from Poilane, one of Paris' best bakeries.
It would take a visitor weeks to experience all of Yaletown's popular dining spots. But edit the list and go early to secure a perch at Rodney's Oyster House where you can order succulent Pacific Northwest and East Coasters. Or sip a martini in the Opus Bar, the chic lounge in the lobby of the Opus Hotel, and reserve a corner table in Elixir for dinner. To rub elbows with visiting celebrities and sophisticated locals, head to the exotic and ultrahip Sanafir and order a Marrakesh Mint or Champagne to pair with "small plates" of protein.
Yaletown offers plenty of stimulating window-shopping too, from up-market clothing boutiques to galleries and unique shops. For an indulgent facial, check out the Skoah Spa with its clean line of Skoah skin products. Not technically in Yaletown, but an easy 10-minute walk away is the newly renovated Century Plaza Hotel; there you'll find the intimate Absolute Spa, where rigorous attention to detail lures health-conscious celebrities and locals alike. Selections here include Austrian Moor Mud Therapy, aromatherapy facials, massages, manicures, pedicures and many other services. The Absolute Spa also provides complimentary light snacks, eucalyptus steams and make-up applications that are always a hit with guests.
Known as Vancouver's Rodeo Drive and infamous for having the steepest commercial rents in all of Canada, Robson Street requires a separate mention. It was named after John Robson, premier of British Columbia from 1889-1892. After World War II, the street became "Robsonstrasse" to indicate the posh European delicatessens, patisseries and chic boutiques lining the avenue. Global brands line the block today, from Ferragamo and the Gap to Armani, Lululemon, LUSH and Nike. You'll also find posh restaurants, tourist shops and stores for luggage, CDs and more. This boulevard is heaven for window shoppers, international tourists, and just plain people-watchers.
