Venice, Italy
Vibrant City of the Serene Republic
by James Martin
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Piazza San Marco |
Ply the celebrated canals of Venice on a clear summer morning and you are sure to be dazzled by the sunlight reflecting off the wavelets that lap at the foundations of some of the world's grandest palaces. La Serenissima awakens; the Most Serene Republic is nudged to life by the very energy that undermines it.
Serenity is energy's strange bedfellow. By the 16th century, as wealthy dignitaries dined serenely, the 16,000 workers of Venice's famed arsenal could crank out a warship for them before the day was done. And today? During the high season, the Piazza San Marco can be seething with the energy of tourists sidestepping ravenous pigeons and making their way to Venice's famous cafes. Yet the romantic alleyways that spread like a spider's web from the piazza can be absent of even a single Hawaiian print shirt. La Serenissima lives in the shadows. Venice, above all, is a walking city. Lose yourself in Venice's alleys and emerge into brilliant squares. Signs to the major attractions are posted frequently enough to turn your confused meanderings into delightfully short diversions. But you can also float between any of Venice's six neighborhoods, called "sestieri," in a water bus or "vaporetto." Buying a three-day vaporetto card will eliminate the frustrating pay-as-you-go Euro coinage hunt.
One tip rises above all: splurge! If there’s one place in the world to lavish in luxury, it’s Venice. The Most Serene Republic demands no less for you than a luxurious room with a view and a staff that makes you feel like the world is yours.
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Hotel Cipriani |
The splendid Hotel Cipriani and its annex, Palazzo Vendramin, are excellent headquarters on Guidecca Island to find respite from the clamor of the city. Stay in a suite of the Palazzo and you may feel as though you’re the only guest. Other luxury options include the storied Hotel Gritti Palace, overlooking the Grand Canal, which in 1525 was the residence of the Doge of Venice, Andrea Gritti. The Hotel Danieli with its signature gothic Doge Dandolo main structure dates from the 14th century. The restored palace is just steps away from the Basilica, the Doge's Palace and the Bridge of Sighs. Hotel Bauer and its Palazzo at The Bauer, also just minutes from St. Mark's Square, has been a favorite of artists and royalty for generations. The Hotel Monaco, a typical 17th century Venetian palazzo, too, overlooks the Grand Canal. Obviously, a more modest dwelling in no way diminishes the enchantment of Venice. The three-star Hotel Agli Alboretti, just over the Accademia Bridge, offers a pleasant garden where breakfast is served. Offering practical rates, the Al Ponte Mocenigo is very popular.
A small hotel off the tourist beat, but just two minutes away from Piazza San Marco, is the fifteen-room Locanda Orseolo, a moderately priced hotel offering views of the Orseolo canal and helpful, enthusiastic owners. If you've come by train, the convenient Hotel Abbazia, part of the monastery complex of the Barefooted Carmelite Friars of Venice has been beautifully restored to preserve the charm of the abbey and is built around a lovely inner garden. La Calcina, or "the lime house," offers reasonably priced rooms on the Zattere promenade in the Dorsoduro. Apartments are also available. |
DAY
1
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Doge's Palace |
Begin your affair with Venice right in the heart of the city, at Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Square. To get there, take a vaporetto to the Santa Zaccaria, San Marco or Vallaresso stop. Start with the gothic jewel that is the symbol of Venetian civilization, Il Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace. The Ducal, or “doge” in the Venetian dialect, palace is composed principally of the former political and judicial headquarters of the city, as well as the Doge’s apartments, all magnificently adorned with paintings and frescoes by Tiziano, Veronese, Tiepolo, Tintoretto and other great masters. Equal testimonies to the genius of the Renaissance artisans are the Scala dei Giganti and the Scala d’Oro, both lavishly carved staircases located in the opulent courtyard.
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Bridge of Sighs |
There’s also a darker side to the Ducal Palace, which included the city courthouse and consequently, its prison. Highly recommended is its Secret Itineraries Tour. Reserve your tickets in advance at the Doge's Palace, or online before you to. Be sure to specify the English or Italian-language tour.
You’ll next want to check out the marble-encased Bridge of Sighs, or Ponte dei Sospiri, which linked Europe’s first state prison to the palace. Suspended high over a shadowy canal, the Ponte dei Sospiri was built in 1614 and later named after imagined sighs of prisoners who, through the tiny windows, might glimpse the emerald lagoon and the glorious Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore for the last time.
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Museo Correr |
The Ducal Palace originated in the beginning of the ninth century, while the history of Venice as a city goes back as far as the fall of the Roman Empire at the end of the fifth century. To learn more about the art and history of Venice, including aspects of everyday life ranging from the vital role of the sea to the festivals and games that animated the city, visit the Museo Correr, also located in St. Mark’s Square. The Correr offers a fine overview of the Piazza San Marco through its windows.
Have lunch before endeavoring to visit the sheer magnitude of La Basilica di San Marco, or Saint Mark’s Basilica. A timeless and powerful monument to the patron saint of Venice, Mark the Evangelist, the landmark seems to have surged out of the sea millennia ago while the finishing touches were completed as late as the 19th century. The relics of St. Mark, who is symbolized throughout the city by the omnipresent winged lion, were brought to Venice from Alexandria, Egypt in the ninth century. They contribute to the political and religious supremacy of the city. Read more about the life of St. Mark and the curious kidnapping of his remains on www.basilicasanmarco.it.
The magnificent multicolored marble façade is capped by five domes and adorned with an intricate series of mosaics that depict the passion and resurrection of Jesus Christ. The basilica is the third church to be constructed on the site. This is an amalgam of a century of styles, the most prominent being the Venetian Byzantine. This sacred structure was inspired by the Church of the Holy Apostles in Constantinople. Admiring the façade from the Piazza San Marco just when the bells of the handsome brick tower begin to thunder, intensifies the already emotional experience. The cavernous interior is almost overwhelming with its sparkling gold mosaics covering every millimeter of the vast vaulted ceiling.
Take the time to visit the various chapels with their beautiful icons and statues and pay the fee to visit the Pala d’Oro, the fantastically bejeweled altar screen, “the world's only intact example of large-size Gothic goldsmith's art.” It’s also an example of the extraordinary treasures, ranging from precious metals, stones and pearls to ancient glass and ceramic objects, that were collected from the near East throughout the ages and now lay dormant in the great recesses of this astounding mausoleum.
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Caffe Florian |
You’ll need a drink after this spiritual pilgrimage and the choices are numerous. If you haven’t already been there for lunch, relax on the terrace of the nearby Caffè Florian. The band will serenade you with the same type of music that was played during Venice's illustrious past, when personalities from yesteryear (Lord Byron, Goethe, Madame de Staël, Chateaubriand, Charles Dickens) came here to drink and to make history.
Another world-renowned watering hole worth a visit is Harry’s Bar. With its intimate, club-like interior and stylized service, this Cipriani original is as much a symbol of the city as the gondola. Try the signature Bellini, a fresh peach nectar and prosecco aperitivo. A lively alternative in the Dorsoduro is the Margaret Duchamp in Campo Santa Margherita. Have a spritz and people-watch until the wee hours.
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Rialto Bridge |
Start your evening stroll with an elevator ride to the top of the campanile, the city's watchtower, which collapsed in 1902 and was rebuilt in 1912. There are great views of the city from here, especially stunning as the sun sets over the gleaming domes of San Marco. Your walk through the San Marco sestiere will lead to the massive marble Rialto Bridge, the oldest bridge on the Grand Canal. It was constructed from wood as early as the 12th century and remodeled in stone in the 17th century. Today, the bridge is lined with boutiques and peddlers. Once over the Rialto Bridge, you will find yourself in the San Polo sestiere, a haven for cafés, restaurants and wine bars. Sip a Bellini at a romantic canal-side café before heading off to dinner. If you don’t mind waiting in line, seek out the hidden Trattoria alla Madonna for seafood specialties served in a lively locale at reasonable prices.
Continue
to Day 2
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* Photos are property of Gayot.com. Photos of Museo Correr and Doge's Palace from Musei Civici Veneziani.
PWF052107 |
(Updated: 06/05/09 KR) |
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