Ventura & Ojai, California

For a taste of California coastal life that drifts along at a much slower pace than Los Angeles, San Diego or even Santa Barbara, visit the binary cities of Ventura and Ojai. Ventura is located midway between Malibu and Santa Barbara, bisected by the 101 freeway. Originally an 18th-century mission town (named for Mission San Buenaventura), Ventura is now populated with working-class folk, farmers, fishermen and surfers. Thanks to a steady influx of tourists who come to enjoy the ocean and the Channel Islands just offshore, Ventura now buzzes with a revitalized historic downtown full of shops, restaurants, wine and coffee bars and a vibrant arts scene including galleries and museums.

If what the locals refer to as "June gloom" (foggy mornings) appears on the coast, you can head fifteen miles inland instead to sunny Ojai, in search of its renowned "pink moment"—a magically lit sunset that bathes the Topa Topa Mountains in a rosy glow. Ojai, which means "nest" in the native Chumash language, is a tranquil spot known for its small-town atmosphere, an enchanted place where orange blossoms perfume the air and spiritual communion at Meditation Mount is as popular as the golf course at the majestic Ojai Valley Inn & Spa. Combining Ventura and Ojai for a three-day getaway offers something for everyone, including beach-bound families, couples looking for a romantic escape, girlfriends with a penchant for shopping or spas, surfers and even solo travelers seeking spiritual enlightenment.

Ojai Valley Inn & Spa

Should you decide to base your visit in Ventura, The Pierpont Inn & Racquet Club, a historic Craftsman-style lodging, includes both standard and pricier one-of-a-kind rooms. At Ventura's only beachfront high-rise hotel, The Crowne Plaza Ventura Beach, guests can practically roll out of bed and check out the popular surf and kite-boarding scene at "C" street. The Clocktower Inn and the Bella Maggiore Inn, both located in the heart of downtown are within walking distance of Main Street. The Four Points Sheraton in the Channel Islands Harbor area overlooking the marina is another option. Bed-and-breakfast choices even include a converted Gothic church: the Victorian Rose Bed and Breakfast.

It's worth spending a night or two in Ojai, even if it means extending your stay. The Ojai Valley Inn & Spa, a top-of-the-line retreat noted for its golf course and luxurious Moroccan-style spa, has undergone a $70-million renovation and is a destination unto itself. Book your stay at The Emerald Iguana, offering unique, charming lodgings with an artistic bent and rooms showcasing the work of local artists and craftsmen, much of it available for purchase. For a relaxing and enchanted stay, check into The Lavender Inn, a B&B with a large lawn on which to lounge. Sprigs of lavender decorate the rooms of this 1874 building, Ojai's first schoolhouse. Breakfasts here showcase local ingredients. Those who value physical fitness can check in to The Oaks at Ojai, in the heart of downtown.

DAY 1

Begin your visit in Ventura. Tucked amidst two rivers and situated between the California coastal range and the Pacific, the city offers many diversions. Stop for coffee at the Coffee Loft@Zoey's. Or fuel up on a hearty breakfast midtown at Pete's Breakfast House, a popular local spot.

You can shop 'til you drop on walker-friendly Main Street. Treasure hunt in the numerous thrift stores, antique shops, trendy clothing boutiques, gift shops and home furnishing stores. Main Street also offers cultural diversions including numerous art galleries, showcasing Ventura's lively artistic community. Even a local beauty salon, the SPA by Diane Loring, one block off Main Street, hangs and sells contemporary art. There's plenty of free parking throughout town, including along one side of Main Street and a most generous four hours gratis on the other.

Main Street, and its environs, is also a veritable restaurant row. For Mexican fare, try the authentic mole dishes for lunch at the brightly painted Maria Bonita—named for the 1930s Mexican movie star Maria Felix. The surprising and lush atmosphere at Nona's Courtyard Café, tucked inside the reputedly haunted Bella Maggiore Inn, is a great stop for ladies who lunch.

Ventura County Museum of History and Art

Don't miss the Ventura County Museum of History and Art. Permanent displays showcase the mission and rancho periods, citrus and oil industries in Ventura County, suburban growth and even vintage surfboards. Changing exhibitions of works by regional artists with international reputations, including Otto Heino, John Nava and John C. Lewis, are exceptional. Noteworthy are the George Stuart Historical Figures, a rotating exhibit from the museum's permanent collection of 200 figurines depicting famous and infamous people through the ages. From the dagger in Jack the Ripper's grasp to the crown jewels in Queen Victoria's tiara, the detail is remarkable.

Settle down with a drink before dinner at Cafe Fiore, a popular bar and Italian restaurant, or at one of the many downtown wine bars. Or try a specialty martini at J's Tapas & Martini Bar.

One of our top choices for dinner is the newly opened Brooks restaurant at Thompson Blvd. and California St. Chef-owner Andy Brooks creates highly seasonal New American food. Westside Cellar Café & Lounge on Main Street features tasty and filling appetizer-sized entrées and a great wine list in a cozy, hip atmosphere. The French-inspired grill fare at 71 Palm, situated in a historic Craftsman house off Main Street, is another excellent choice. Chef Didier Poirier has added more steaks and chops to his menu in a nod to the popularity of modern steakhouses. Further up Main Street you can dine in a vintage train car at The Sidecar Restaurant where chef Tim Kilcoyne makes a point of showcasing ingredients from local farmers.

Jonathan's at Peirano's

The chic yet comfortable dining room at Tutti's off Main, located in a historic former livery building, is the spot for artfully prepared California cuisine, such as succulent scallops served with grilled fennel or wild salmon topped with fried chives. In addition to a great wine list, Tutti's offers a wonderful selection of unique teas. Weekend brunch is popular on the outdoor patio and there's a take-out for delicious spit roasted chickens and picnic supplies at Tutti's to Go.

Jonathan's at Peirano's offers globally inspired fare as well as seasonal chef's menus and is also a working gallery showcasing Ventura County artists. Try owner-chef Jason Collis's signature spicy crab bisque or Halibut de Alemendras, local halibut in a cinnamon-orange sauce.

Nightlife, especially on the weekends, is alive and well and ranges from productions at the acclaimed Rubicon Theatre to rock concerts and visiting acts at the Ventura Theater. Dargan's Irish Pub & Restaurant, an Irish watering hole with pub fare, provides garrulous entertainment. Weekend spots for music include Zoey's Upstairs with Latin, jazz, rock and folk music. Jazz is alive and well several nights a week at Café des Artistes. Off the beaten path, we like a pre- or post-theater libation or late-night rendezvous at Wine Lover's, for wines by the glass and complimentary pizzas from outdoor ovens, all served to the beat of local bands.

Continue to Day 2