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While one can get around on foot to explore Vienna’s historical center (and even the Ringstrasse, should you want to battle the traffic), seeing the sites in the Vorstädte (inner suburbs) will require riding Vienna’s mass transit system. The easy-to-use trams, subways and buses are fast and efficient and will take you anywhere you want.
Fans of the Secessionist artists should not miss the Belvedere, two huge Baroque mansions connected by a beautifully landscaped sloping garden. The upper mansion houses a great collection of paintings by Schiele and Klimt (including the latter’s famous The Kiss).
From the Belvedere, jump on the U-bahn to the Hundertwasserhaus (take the red line at the Taubstummengasse station, switch to the green line at Karlsplatz and then finish at the Landstrasse/Wien-Mitte station). Friedrich Hundertwasser, inspired by his commanding principle that the “straight line is godless,” redesigned these residential apartment buildings in 1983 into what looks like a giant children’s playhouse. Walls covered with friezes, gilded domes, oval windows, uneven floors and a cacophony of bright colors defined Hundertwasser’s style, which was really a reaction to modern architecture’s proclivity for flat surfaces and boxy structures. Inside the Hundertwasserhaus is a collection of the artist’s paintings, but the real treat is just walking around the building itself.
For a sampling of some true Viennese schnapps, hop back on the U-bahn to the Philadelphia Bridge stop and visit the Alt-Wiener Schnapsmuseum (Schnapps Museum). The museum, founded in 1875, still features some original equipment. The schnapps are distilled using old recipes, and, best of all, you can sample about fourteen of these sweet-smelling liqueurs. Be sure to book in advance since groups of ten are required for tours.
When you’re ready for a snack, head to the Naschmarkt, perhaps Central Europe’s best outdoor market. Parallel rows of kiosks—one serving ready-to-eat grub, the other selling fruits, veggies and products like honey, figs and olive oil—eventually give way to an intriguing outdoor flea market, where people from all over Central and Eastern Europe hawk antiques and other goods.
For something different from the hustle and bustle of the crowds at the Naschmarkt, head out to Schönbrunn (from the Karlsplatz station jump on the green line to the Schönbrunn station), the Habsburgs’ former summer palace that’s bigger than some medium-sized towns. The grand, gated palace boasts almost 1,500 ornate rooms (kind of like a junior version of Versailles). It was this scaled-down grandiosity that some historians believe saved the ruling Habsburgs from the revolutions that occurred in France in 1789. One of the most impressive rooms is Mirror Hall where, in 1762, the seven-year-old Mozart performed. It was here that he made an impromptu and comical wedding proposal to Marie Antoinette, one year his senior. Hand-held audio tours of the palace are available. Music lovers can obtain tickets for daily concerts held in The Orangery—the largest conservatory of its type in the world—by the Schönbrunn Palace Orchestra.
After perusing the palace, head over to the Haus Der Musik where you can explore Vienna’s musical heritage—and even your own. Here you can compose your own CD or "conduct" the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. For shopping and nightlife, one of the best spots to hit in all of Vienna is Mariahilferstrasse and its environs, located in the sixth district and just a short jaunt on foot from the Museums Quartier. While the tourists flood the historical center, locals come here to eat, drink and shop. Kids and fans of "The Third Man" will want to check out the Prater (where Orson Wells gave his famous “cuckoo clock” speech). Located in Leopoldstadt near the Danube River, this old-school amusement park has a Ferris wheel that dates back to 1898.
If you’re tired of the hearty Viennese fare, try Ra’mien, which serves up stylized Thai and Vietnamese dishes in a chic designer space. Or relish Old World cuisine at König von Ungarn (King of Hungary), which is known for its excellent service. Another option is the upscale corner restaurant Fabios, serving Italian fare in an ultra-chic setting.
And here the dance ends—but it is hoped this will not be your last waltz in such an amazing city.
For
more information, visit the Vienna Tourist Board, www.wien.info
*Images courtesy of www.wien-bild.at
(Updated: 06/12/08 HC) |