Alain Ducasse
The Classics, Revisited
by André Gayot

Some observations are indispensable before a visit to Alain Ducasse restaurant in Paris, for Ducasse probably intended this space inside the Hôtel Plaza Athénée to be, more than just a top-notch restaurant, a reflection on the passing of time, fads, the eternity of classicism and, simply speaking, life.

Hence, one finds an orange clock that ticks the minutes of a rare moment sitting under an 18th century gilded ceiling. Crystal chandeliers wrapped in transparent greyish metallic envelopes transform the lighting into a hologram show. The back of the Louis XV seats shimmer with scintillating pastel-coloured fabric; and snapshots of visiting angels mask the antique wood wall carvings.

One can take the visual message several ways. Superficial observers might just decide that objects are ill-placed. But others might find that the colors, textures, materials, eras and styles are intentionally combined to shock, a tad, the “bourgeois culture” and create an unconventional sensory showcase for the food of Alain Ducasse.

What has this much-celebrated chef to demonstrate at this point of his stellar career? He has won all the possible kudos for his culinary accomplishments around the world and nobody doubts that he belongs in the pantheon of contemporary gastronomy. Obviously he is, to boot, an accomplished international businessman, from Monaco to New York.

In Paris, Ducasse had no choice other than to surpass, one way or another, the usual limits of a hip gastronomic restaurant. Could that be why he invented this unorthodox and poetic space where the serious diner would enjoy an ensemble of continuous sensual emotions with his feet in tradition and his eyes in the world of today and maybe tomorrow?

Chef Christophe Moret, for years Ducasse’s second, shares the faith of his mentor in the superiority of the great classics that he dons with discreet modern looks. Starting with prime products, be they foie gras des Landes, truffes du Périgord or Brittany lobster, he masterfully executes these standards, processing incredibly refined details such as pasta made from chestnut flour, or sea food adorned with white “vineyard” peaches poached in red wine, accompanied by two kinds of apples.

One of the triumphs of this classical art is illustrated in season with the cèpes d’automne en fine pâte croustillante (wild autumn mushrooms in a pastry crust). Fresh cèpes cooked in duck fat are arranged on a bread dough base, then spread with a condiment composed of almonds, hazelnuts, tomatoes and Jabugo ham. A raw cèpe is minced over the pie, served with a mesclun salad seasoned with a cèpe salt and fresh herbs.

Other examples of this extremely sophisticated cuisine are the signature dishes, such as the famous poularde de Bresse (truffled and roasted with celeriac, cèpes mushroom and carrot stuffing), the leg served separately in a ravioli along with zucchinis and celeriac in a chicken broth.perfumed with chervil, tarragon, chives and truffles.

On the lighter side, the warm langoustines topped with caviar provoke a strong briny explosion when they melt in the mouth. The veal sweetbreads are modestly presented as a homestyle dish garnished with carrots and turnips but, indeed, enhanced with a fragrant truffle sauce in a caramelized onion sauce, which transforms this usually chewy offal into a real delight.

The touch of modernity is found in the fish dishes where the bar de ligne (wild bass) is served with candied citrus fruits and in a reduction of the same grapefruits and oranges spiced with ginger, lime and pepper.

What could be more classical for dessert than a baba au rhum or the warm and cold poire Belle Hélène? More adventurous and exciting is the combined fresh sheep’s cheese with a pepper caramel sweetened with Corsican honey. Afterwards, waiters who look like executives in their black jackets and grey pants will bring you macaroons, chocolates and caramels freshly made with all sort of fragrances. Meanwhile, they perform an impeccable service that includes preparing herbal tea with fresh herbs, presented in pots on a cart.

French wines exclusively comprise the list overseen by chef sommelier Laurent Roucayrol, who has collected an impressive selection of Grandes Marques Champagnes.

Once all the details from décor to ambience and food are deciphered, this rare experience is as sophisticated as it gets. Given that 55 staff members are taking care of you, you will not be surprised to pay a steep price for this unusual event (€ 300 for the “Collection” menu that changes with the seasons and €190 for the “Plaisir de Table” menu).

See all restaurants in the Ducasse restaurant empire:

Check his latest book, the Grand Livre de Cuisine.