Since 1969, restaurant, hotel, travel & other witty reviews by a handpicked, worldwide team of discerning professionals—and your views, too.

NEW RESTAURANTS: PARIS

La Suite: Décor and Fashionistas...
La Suite, the newest hot spot courtesy of Cathy and David Guetta, took over the old La Véranda space on George V. A fashion industry clientele has set up shop in the trendy, modern space, which functions as a restaurant, bar and club. The menu features contemporary French fare.

Where's the Beef?: DeVèz
Christian Valette (La Maison de L'Aubrac) has opened DeVèz, another restaurant focusing on and promoting Aubrac beef from the Auvergne region. More than just a steakhouse, the restaurant prepares beef 12 different ways: as tapas, in a sandwich, marinated and cooked with a rotisserie, sautéed, fried, slow-cooked in aspic… Only the breakfast menu includes any non-beef options. The Aubrac motif is carried throughout the space with a décor of wood, autumn colors, photos of the region and even horns above the bar.

 

Seize au Seize: Smooth Transition from Ghislaine Arabian
Soon after Ghislaine Arabian’s departure from her namesake restaurant in the 16th, owner Théodore Margellos appointed young chef Frédéric Simonin (Le Meurice, Taillevent) to head up the kitchens at the space, which has been reincarnated as Seize au Seize. The transition was quick and seamless, as most of the team has remained the same. The best way to describe this restaurant is simple, reasonable, and good. The short, contemporary French menu incorporates seasonal specialties: five starters, three fish dishes, three meat dishes, and four desserts. The very reasonably-priced wine list is particularly noteworthy. Save room for one of François Benot’s impressive chocolate desserts.

 

Maison Rouge: One More from the Pourcel Brothers
This trendy new offspring of Maison Blanche is located in the heart of the Marais, just steps from the Hôtel de Ville. The sleek, modern space designed by Imaad Rahmouni is dominated by a mostly white interior and large windows looking out on to the bustling neighborhood. The impressive décor overshadows a menu of French and International standards: Thai prawn soup, Balsamic-glazed tuna, moelleux au chocolat, etc. A live DJ rounds out the atmosphere for the fashionable crowd now frequenting this new hot spot.

 

R.: A Room with a View
With the help of designer Christophe Pillet, Mathieu Grinberg and Cyril Thomas have taken over the old Morot-Gaudry space in the 15th arrondissement and turned it into a trendy new restaurant. The intimate but modern space is set in the top floor of a nine-story building and offers excellent views of the Eiffel Tower, making it a nice choice for a romantic night out. The pleasant surprise at R. is that the contemporary French menu doesn’t disappoint, as is too often the case at hip, design-conscious restaurants in Paris.

 

Lavinia: A 6,000+ Bottle Wine List!
Lavinia, with a selection of more than 6,000 bottles of wine and a staff of 15 sommeliers, boasts that it’s the largest wine shop in Europe—even larger than its two siblings in Barcelona and Madrid. Just a few steps from the Madeleine, there is now a serious new competitor for the caves of Hédiard and Fauchon. After wondering around the maze of wine for a while, don’t miss the namesake restaurant and bar on the first floor. The restaurant only serves lunch, but the menu, which features dishes like salad with beef and potatoes on arugula, foie gras and caviar, and smoked salmon, is offered in a sleek space that can handle about 60 covers. Wines by the glass range in price from €3-17.50, but note that the restaurant’s wine list actually consists of all 6,000+ bottles in the store—any of which can be purchased and corked for no additional fee. The casual bar stays open until 8pm, so it’s a nice spot for a dégustation after work.

 

Conran's Second Paris Bistro: Senso
Following the success of London restaurateur Sir Terence Conran’s Alcazar, he opened a second establishment. Senso is a stylish restaurant and bar housed in the Trémoile Hotel in a trendy area of the 8th arrondissement. Chef Philippe Assuncao heads up the kitchen and is offering contemporary French dishes like cream of pumpkin and parmesan soup and red mullet with thyme, olive oil and courgette spaghetti. The hip bar area is decorated with ivory leather sofas and subtle lighting that changes from blues to reds throughout the day, while a second area within the bar features red and grey banquesttes and Veneitian mirrors.

 

Aux Lyonnais: A New Take on an Old Bistro
This landmark Paris bistro opened in 1890, but it spent many years without a noteworthy menu. Fortunately, Alain Ducasse and Thierry De La Brosse (L’Ami Louis) relaunched the traditional Lyonnais bouillon and raised the bar by offering an updated take on the cuisine. Some of this challenge was passed on to young chef Christophe Saintagne, who was helped out in the project by his mentor Jean-François Piège. Dishes still incorporate regional specialties like pike, crayfish, farm poultry, cheeses form Isère, and Lyonnais charcuterie, but preparations have been made more accessible. Rather than simply serving a farm bird with a thick sauce, for example, it is now roasted, garnished with mushrooms, tomatoes, and onions, then deglazed with vinegar and served with its own juices. The wine list, which was revamped by the Ducasse group’s head sommelier Gérard Margeon, now includes more than 80 well-chosen selections.

 

Ze Kitchen Galerie: Any Way You Like It
A popular newcomer located right next door to Les Bookinistes, this hip spot has been drawing a crowd. The menu is simply broken down into four sections: soup, raw (fish), pasta and grilled. Diners are encouraged to order whichever dishes they like in whatever order they like. This modern menu concept is complemented by modern art on the walls.

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