 Chasing
the Ghost of Steinbeck on Cannery Row
By Rubin Carson
 |
Sweeping
views |
A
spectacular ocean setting, historic Cannery Row and the
spirit of John Steinbeck … these are the elements
that provide the backdrop for Monterey Plaza Hotel &
Spa. And despite its setting in a major tourist destination,
it is one of Northern California’s best-kept secrets,
with its sweeping Monterey Bay views.
Steinbeck's novel, Cannery Row, examines blue-collar
life, but the author personally favored luxury and would
have approved of the 300 guestrooms and suites with their
Biedermeier-style furnishings and grand marble bathrooms
with double vanities. Décor is striking, with bold
orange and green striped fabrics. Among the amenities
are 27” TVs, three phones and custom-designed refreshment
centers, and many of the guestrooms have private balconies.
Those staying here enjoy access to a state-of-the-art
rooftop fitness center. There is also a full-service spa
on-site, offering massages, hydrotherapy bath treatments
and more.
 |
| Room
with bold orange and green accents |
In
1945, when Steinbeck wrote Cannery Row, the magnificent
Monterey Aquarium was yet to be built, and four thousand
workers canned 237,000 tons of sardines annually. When
he returned years later, the canneries were shut down
due to over-fishing and pollution. Huge platters of crisp
sardines fried in tempura-like batter used to be a staple
in local restaurants, but alas, no longer. On our last
visit, the hotel’s staff and GM tried in vain for
days to locate one fresh sardine to fry on the entire
Monterey Peninsula. Although this was a disappointment,
it didn’t indicate the death of seafood on the menu.
The 21st century has seen a resurgence in Monterey’s
agricultural and aquatic produce, which is showcased at
the Duck
Club, overseen by Executive Chef James Waller. Trained
in San Diego (with eleven years at Hotel
Del Coronado under his toque), he has prepared state
banquets for Presidents Nixon, Ford, Bush and Clinton.
His philosophy is to keep food simple but to also be daring,
as was evidenced in our meal, which was delicious and
served without pretension. Among the dishes we sampled
were seared diver scallops wrapped in pancetta, with herb
and stone fruit salad with mustard oil and cherry tangerine
reduction, and grilled Harris Ranch rib eye steak garnished
with crispy fried onions. We dismissed the béarnaise
sauce and opted for the creamy spinach with aged yellow
Gouda. Desserts were appropriately outrageous.
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Duck
Club |
Separated
from the Duck Club by just a few feet is the less formal
Schooners Bistro on the Bay. Featuring exotic woods, polished
brass, romantic outdoor dining and countless draft beers,
this gem is everything a nautical hideaway should be---try
the fish and chips in beer batter. Along with the sound
of breaking waves, a highlight of both dining areas is
that the use of cell phones is a strict no-no.
Of course, no stay here would be complete without a visit
to the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Built in 1984, it has far
exceeded its mission to preserve the marine life of Monterey
Bay. Adults as well as kids thrill to the sight of shark
feedings and marvel at tidbits such as the fact that sea
otters eat one-third of their weight every day. The bad
news is that the ten-minute walk from the hotel to the
aquarium is a tribute to jelly bean emporiums, yogurt
vendors and hawkers of T-shirts bearing the likeness of
Steinbeck. The good news is that the hotel’s complimentary
shuttle whisks you past the tourist traps... and as a
guest of the hotel, you’re a VIP and don’t
have to sweat the line.
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Monterey
Plaza Hotel & Spa
