Into the Divine Valley
Honoring
Heritage among Tuscany's Old Vines
By
Alain Gayot
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Quintessential
Tuscan escape |
Vineyards
rolling languidly along hillsides. Cypresses shivering
in honey-toned, late afternoon sunlight. Private farmhouses-turned-inns
dappling the landscape. Clichés? Yes. And yet,
they are the very facets that draw us to Tuscany. We want
the private farmhouses, shivering cypresses and languid
vineyards. Not because they are recognizable, but because
they are authentic. They are not the product of a savvy
marketing team or some Italian Disney, and it is their
legitimacy that gives them their appeal.
Among
Tuscany's genuine experiences is Villa Dievole, where
working the land has always come first, and a chance to
stay there and appreciate it secondary. Eight miles north
of Siena in the Etruscan hamlet of Vagliali, the Dievole
Vineyards have been planted with grapevines since 1090,
when the area was known as Dieulele, or "the
divine valley." Today, the estate's 750 acres of
woodland, olive groves, citrus trees and farmland include
sixteen unique vineyards, each cultivated by an individual
vintner. The planting and tending and harvesting will
go on whether you choose to spend a night here or not.
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Open-air
terrazzo |
Restored
chapel |
Fortunately,
the accommodation of guests is taken seriously, beginning
in the 16th-century, nine-room villa, which includes two
suites and one grand suite. Casa Dievolino is a private
four-bedroom guesthouse, and the freestanding Olivo, a
former stable, has four guestrooms. The property's gem,
Colombaio, features nine private suites in a quartet of
converted 17th-century farmhouses, set in a hilltop hamlet
near the ancient bread ovens on the winery's highest vineyard.
Although rooms are equipped with amenities such as CD
players, it is their classic atmosphere that provides
their greatest comfort.
Villa
Dievole is not a traditional inn, but it does offer the
anchors for a memorable stay. A natural complement to
the Sangiovese wines produced on the estate, the cuisine
is rustic and traditional. An open-air terrazzo provides
a picturesque setting for dinner, but you want to make
sure to come during one of the scheduled feasts in the
candlelit wine cellars. The drama of the setting alone
will fulfill your appetite. For recreation—and if
you feel the need to work off your meals—there are
two swimming pools and a fitness trail through woods and
vineyards.
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The
villa exterior |
Heritage
vines |
One
of the estate's treasures is its restored chapel, with
its falso marmo (false marble), painting
of wheat on the altar in tribute to Tuscan farmers, and
original fresco above the altar of the winegrowers of
Dieulele. It provides a tranquil starting point for understanding
the estate's story, which can be further explored on a
complimentary winery tour offered to guests. Sip wine
in the tasting room and discover how, during the past
two decades, this antique property has been revived. Like
its vineyards—comprising heritage vines, vines planted
in the mid 1990s and vines slated for planting in the
next few years—Dievole is a place where the past
meets the future in a gracious acknowledgment of Tuscany's
rich history of winemaking.
Going
to Italy? Check our guide. |
P013006 |
(Updated: 07/08/08 ET) |
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