Wine, by Andre Domine - Book Review

A Comprehensive Guide to Wine Culture and Production

by André Dominé

(uf ULLMANN, 2010)

We're not exactly sure we would call wine journalist André Dominé's comprehensive guide to the vines, aptly titled Wine, a coffee table book. In fact, you may want to think twice before haphazardly placing this hefty tome on a less-than-sturdy piece of living room furniture. Weighing in at nearly ten pounds, Wine isn't a light read in any sense of the word; however, that being said, this expansive and ambitious book does act as an excellent resource for both budding wine collectors and seasoned oenophiles.

Encyclopedic in scope and discursive by design, Wine leaves no grape leaf unturned as it delves deep into the world of wine culture and production, beginning with the development of viticulture amongst nomadic peoples some 7,000 years ago and continuing through to the highly-refined vinification processes used by winemakers today. Along the way, Dominé and his team of experts provide plenty of useful tips for wine newbies, including tasting tips, food pairing suggestions and — for would-be winemakers — instructions on how to care for fledgling vines.

While everything from the science of wine to current trends in taste is covered in Dominé's tome, the greatest portion of the 926-page volume is dedicated to a detailed overview of the various wine regions around the world. Given the German origins of the book, it perhaps comes as no surprise that the lion's share of attention is afforded to European wines and winemakers. Of course, ample space is reserved to explore storied regions like Tuscany and the Rhône Valley; however, we were pleasantly surprised to see the relatively smaller wine industries of former Soviet satellites like Slovakia and Romania receive coverage, as well. Unfortunately, winemakers in the United States and the rest of the Americas are given short shrift in comparison. Although California — and especially Napa — has its moment in Dominé's ever-shifting spotlight, burgeoning regions like Oregon's Willamette Valley are glossed over in little more than a paragraph.

Despite its large size, this intriguing read is hardly daunting and never dull, thanks in large part to its unstuffy narrative flow and the inclusion of countless interesting anecdotes. Throughout the book, the text is also frequently broken up with colorful photos of wines, vines and vineyards, making Wine as visually pleasing as it is informative. While earnest oenophiles will want to take a crack at tackling the encyclopedia-size guide from cover to cover, Dominé and crew make quick flip-throughs a breeze with an easy-to-use table of contents and appendix, which includes a glossary of terms and list of vintages. So no matter your level of familiarity with the beloved grape-based libation (or your proclivity for reading 1,000-page books), Wine is sure to serve as a compelling reference tool in any library.

Reviewed by Nick Winfrey

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