Top
10 U.S. Hotel Restaurants 2005
Proof that the
hospitality industry is advancing in an enlightened direction,
fifteen of the top 40 dining rooms selected for our "2005
Restaurant Issue" are located in hotels. Today's
lodgings play host to some of the biggest names in the
food world, from Jean-Georges Vongerichten to Michel Richard.
Like an extraordinary wine and cheese pairing, the right
combination of hotel and restaurant is spiritually moving.
We love the idea of dining out and then wandering down
the hall to our suite for a sweet, sated night's sleep.
Because we assume you do, too, we're delighted to offer
our recommendations for the best hotel restaurants in
the country.
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ARIZONA
Scottsdale
Mary Elaine's (The Phoenician, A Luxury Collection Resort)
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Those
looking for a cool, refreshing oasis in the desert will
find it at Mary
Elaine's. Under the guiding culinary hand of chef
de cuisine Bradford Thompson, who developed his skills
with predecessor James Boyce and prior to that Daniel
Boulud in New York. His modern French style, fusion of
old and new techniques, and acclaimed seasonal tasting
menus—plus a $3 million wine collection
—
are
highlights at The
Phoenician, A Luxury Collection Resort, which has plenty to boast of in its own
right, including the 22,000-square-foot Centre for Well-Being.
With a spa this indulgent, working off a Thompson-inspired
dish is as much a guilty pleasure as eating it.
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CALIFORNIA
Oakhurst
Erna's Elderberry House (Château du Sureau)
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Don't
let the name fool you. It may sound a little hokey, but
there's nothing corny about the seasonally-inspired dishes
from executive chef James Overbaugh. The prix-fixe six-course
menu changes daily. It is paired with wines chosen by
a dedicated wine director, who occasionally receives input
from Erna's (the inn's founder) daughter, who served as a sommelier at Charlie
Trotter's in Chicago. The Yosemite Park-adjacent restaurant
gets its name from the elderberries that surround Château
du Sureau, which features a stone turret and Parisian
style balconies.
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CALIFORNIA
San
Francisco
Campton Place (Campton Place Hotel)
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In
2004 Daniel Humm was one of only five Rising
Stars in our annual Restaurant Issue. In 2005 his Campton
Place landed on our Top
40 Restaurants in the U.S. list. This Zurich-born
chef is a boon for Campton
Place Hotel, which enjoys a Union Square location
in a city worshipped by gourmets. Of course, Humm's sophisticated
Modern French cuisine is one of the reasons San Francisco
has such a strong culinary reputation. Refined surroundings
—
in
champagne and gold tones
—
and
a unique wine service cart enhance the dining experience,
as does the service-oriented boutique hotel.
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CALIFORNIA
San Francisco
The Dining Room (The Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco)
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Sure,
it's fun to talk about the fact that Ron Siegel was the
first American to defeat an Iron Chef on the eponymous
Japanese cult TV show, but his fifteen minutes of fame
are nothing compared to the real reason Siegel deserves
his laurels: his Eastern-influenced French cuisine on
the menu at The
Dining Room. Considering this restaurant's long-standing
reputation, developed under such chefs as Gary Danko and
Sylvain Portay, Siegel's accomplished helming of this
landmark property is particularly notable. As a result,
it remains a fitting ornament for one of San Francisco's
classic hotels.
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CONNECTICUT
Greenwich
Thomas Henkelmann (Homestead Inn)
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German
heritage, classic French training and a professional education
throughout Europe have shaped the cuisine of celebrated
chef Thomas Henkelmann, whose eponymous restaurant made our Top 40 list. The excellent dining room is one
of our favorites and is integral to the intimate inn,
which was conceived by Henkelmann and his wife. You don't
have to stay here to eat here, but we suggest you check
in. That way, all you have to do is stroll a short way
from your room for a taste of contemporary French cuisine
paired with wines from a list Francophiles will adore.
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DISTRICT
OF COLUMBIA
Washington
DC
Michel Richard Citronelle (Latham Hotel)
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Of
all the movers and shakers that frequent Michel Richard
Citronelle, Monsieur Richard himself arguably is most
deserving of the spotlight. This is saying a lot in a
city filled with influential politicos, but we stand by
our assessment, and we're sure you'll agree from the moment
you take your first bite. Like the hotel,
the dining
room is subtle, the better to complement Richard's
theatrics in the exhibition kitchen. Known for revolutionizing
French-California cuisine, he now wows with an extravagant
nine-course tasting menu. Like what you nibble? Then we
suggest you take one of his innovative cooking classes.
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NEVADA
Las
Vegas
Alex (Wynn Las Vegas)
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When
putting together his star-studded collection of chefs
for his new Las Vegas hotel,
Steve Wynn scored big with Alessandro Stratta. Wynn was
so pleased with this asset, in fact, that he had a Belle
Époque dining room built just for Stratta. The
menu, blending flavors from France and Italy, assures Alex's position as a leader in this city that has surprised us
with its turn as a destination for gourmet foodies. Tasting
menus and à la carte dishes are paired with an
excellent wine list heavy on French vintages, all served
on the same property that boasts The Strip's only 18-hole
golf course and the Penske Wynn Ferrari Maserati dealership.
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NEW
YORK
New
York
Alain Ducasse (Jumeirah Essex House)
International
man of culinary mastery, Alain Ducasse boasts restaurants
around the globe, from New York to Las Vegas to Tokyo
to Paris. We choose to applaud his consistent excellence
at Jumeirah
Essex House. With executive chef Tony Esnault in charge
of the dining
room, Ducasse's menu takes diners on a journey highlighted
by product-oriented dishes, in the atmosphere of a modern
manor house. The prix-fixe and tasting menus aren't cheap,
but their sophistication suits the hotel's old money style
and priceless Central Park views.
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NEW
YORK
New
York
Jean Georges (Trump International Hotel & Tower)
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Another
globetrotter with an international gourmet empire, Jean-Georges
Vongerichten has made a celebrated name for himself with
a foundation that is classic French and influences that
include the time he spent mastering his craft in Asia.
Still, this flagship restaurant
—
the
centerpiece of his domain
—
at
the Trump
Tower continues to set the standards. Executive chef
Mark LaPico admirably tends to the day to day, which is
complemented by Adam Tihany's Trump-worthy interior design.
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VIRGINIA
Washington
The Inn at Little Washington (The Inn at Little Washington)
With
a seven-course tasting menu that changes every day, this restaurant proves a favorite with both those passing through and
loyal guests. Along with the country
inn, it's the gracious product of self-taught chef
Patrick O'Connell and his partner, Reinhardt Lynch. While
most restaurants on this list favor strong French influences,
this one pays homage
—
without
flinching—to
American cuisine. O'Connell works with instinct and imagination,
and his dishes get a lift from the 15,000 bottle wine
cellar. At the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains, this
pleasant retreat makes a great weekend escape or day trip
out of D.C.
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