When in Paris, Do As the Romans Do

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Divinamente Italiano restaurant in Paris

Divinamente Italiano restaurant in Paris

by Andre Gayot Craving Italian food while in Paris? Why not? And forget the old adage “When in Rome…” or “… in Paris.” Italian chow is the preferred foreign cuisine of the French, who admit that since the conquest of the Gauls by Julius Caesar, Italians are not really foreigners. The French have embraced Italian cuisine as well as Italian art, culture and social organization, and hired Leonardo da Vinci to build palaces for their kings who married powerful or beautiful women — the latest being Carla, the spouse of Sarkozy. They also learned from them to eat with forks. It’s no surprise that there’s no dearth of Italian eateries in Paris. Our friend Jean-Claude Ribaud, one of the most respected food critics in France, has visited — or revisited — a fistful of old and new Parisian Italian restaurants. For more on Italian cuisine at large, read John Mariani’s How Italian Food Conquered the World. Conti Known for its bollito misto, a savory stew composed of three meats seasoned with salsa verde and Cremona mustard Conti is located in the posh 16th arrondissement of Paris. 72 rue Lauriston 75116 Paris, France 01 47 27 74 67 Métro: Boissière Il Ristorante In the chic 17th arrondissement, chef Rocco Anfuso (established there for many years) offers traditional dishes with a personal touch like spaghetti en papillote and fish cooked in sea water. 22, rue Fourcroy 75017 Paris, France 01 47 63 34 00 Métro: Ternes or Pereire Le Rital Rital is a French slang nickname for Italian. This trattoria (opened in 2010) serves fettucini, maccheroncini, tagliolini, pappardelle and branded “spinozi,” which according to chef Ivano Giordani are the best pasta in the world. Ivano also offers a superb osso bucco which you can also purchase to-go in the adjacent boutique, along with lasagna, charcuterie items and wines from Italy. 25, rue Pierre Demours 75017 Paris, France 01 46 22 02 33 Métro: Ternes Giallo Limone (Yellow Lemon) Indeed, the organic lemons they use in their kitchen originate from Sorrento, where they are grown by the family of restaurateur Salvatore Esposito, who prepares a delicious pasta alla puttanesca and the specialties of Campania at sweet prices. Giallo Limone is located in the suburb of Kremlin-Bicêtre. 5 Avenue du Repos 94270 Le Kremlin-Bicêtre, France 06 87 22 37 76 Métro: Le Kremlin-Bicêtre Divinamente Italiano Sommelier Raffaela Petrillo and Inès di Franco are the hosts of this trendy, slick red and grey place, modernizing traditional Italian fare and also leading the degustation of small Italian vintners. 28, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires 75002 Paris, France 01 47 03 38 41 Métro: Bourse Napoletano Sempre Despite their name, the restaurant caters to the entire peninsula and not just to Naples, and also covers the entire Italian gamut with a comprehensive wine cellar rich in 200 references. There’s also a wine bar. 148, rue de Vaugirard 75015 Paris, France 01 47 34 63 45 Métro: Pasteur La Famiglia As soon as you are seated, a plate of vegetables in “pinzimonio” is brought to you. Delicious ravioli and “involtini” follow in a pleasant, relaxed ambiance. 2, rue Waldeck-Rousseau 75017 Paris, France 01 45 74 20 28 Métro: Porte Maillot Mori Venice Bar In the center of Paris, close to the Bourse (stock exchange), this flagship of Italian culinary presence in the City of Lights is conducted by Master Massimo Mori. 2, rue du 4 Septembre 75002 Paris, France 01 44 55 51 55 Métro: Bourse For more Italian dining suggestions in Paris, check out our Top 10 Italian Restaurants in Paris! Related Content: Paris restaurant listings Top 10 Bakeries Top 10 Wine Bars