When in Paris, Do As the Romans Do

Divinamente Italiano restaurant in Paris
Divinamente Italiano restaurant in Paris

by Andre Gayot

Craving Italian food while in Paris? Why not? And forget the old adage “When in Rome…” or “… in Paris.”

Italian chow is the preferred foreign cuisine of the French, who admit that since the conquest of the Gauls by Julius Caesar, Italians are not really foreigners. The French have embraced Italian cuisine as well as Italian art, culture and social organization, and hired Leonardo da Vinci to build palaces for their kings who married powerful or beautiful women — the latest being Carla, the spouse of Sarkozy. They also learned from them to eat with forks. It’s no surprise that there’s no dearth of Italian eateries in Paris.

Our friend Jean-Claude Ribaud, one of the most respected food critics in France, has visited — or revisited — a fistful of old and new Parisian Italian restaurants. For more on Italian cuisine at large, read John Mariani’s How Italian Food Conquered the World.

Known for its bollito misto, a savory stew composed of three meats seasoned with salsa verde and Cremona mustard Conti is located in the posh 16th arrondissement of Paris.
72 rue Lauriston
75116 Paris, France
01 47 27 74 67
Métro: Boissière

Il Ristorante
In the chic 17th arrondissement, chef Rocco Anfuso (established there for many years) offers traditional dishes with a personal touch like spaghetti en papillote and fish cooked in sea water.
22, rue Fourcroy
75017 Paris, France
01 47 63 34 00
Métro: Ternes or Pereire

Le Rital
Rital is a French slang nickname for Italian. This trattoria (opened in 2010) serves fettucini, maccheroncini, tagliolini, pappardelle and branded “spinozi,” which according to chef Ivano Giordani are the best pasta in the world. Ivano also offers a superb osso bucco which you can also purchase to-go in the adjacent boutique, along with lasagna, charcuterie items and wines from Italy.
25, rue Pierre Demours
75017 Paris, France
01 46 22 02 33
Métro: Ternes

Giallo Limone (Yellow Lemon)
Indeed, the organic lemons they use in their kitchen originate from Sorrento, where they are grown by the family of restaurateur Salvatore Esposito, who prepares a delicious pasta alla puttanesca and the specialties of Campania at sweet prices. Giallo Limone is located in the suburb of Kremlin-Bicêtre.
5 Avenue du Repos
94270 Le Kremlin-Bicêtre, France
06 87 22 37 76
Métro: Le Kremlin-Bicêtre

Divinamente Italiano
Sommelier Raffaela Petrillo and Inès di Franco are the hosts of this trendy, slick red and grey place, modernizing traditional Italian fare and also leading the degustation of small Italian vintners.
28, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires
75002 Paris, France
01 47 03 38 41
Métro: Bourse

Napoletano Sempre
Despite their name, the restaurant caters to the entire peninsula and not just to Naples, and also covers the entire Italian gamut with a comprehensive wine cellar rich in 200 references. There’s also a wine bar.
148, rue de Vaugirard
75015 Paris, France
01 47 34 63 45
Métro: Pasteur

La Famiglia
As soon as you are seated, a plate of vegetables in “pinzimonio” is brought to you. Delicious ravioli and “involtini” follow in a pleasant, relaxed ambiance.
2, rue Waldeck-Rousseau
75017 Paris, France
01 45 74 20 28
Métro: Porte Maillot

Mori Venice Bar
In the center of Paris, close to the Bourse (stock exchange), this flagship of Italian culinary presence in the City of Lights is conducted by Master Massimo Mori.
2, rue du 4 Septembre
75002 Paris, France
01 44 55 51 55
Métro: Bourse

For more Italian dining suggestions in Paris, check out our Top 10 Italian Restaurants in Paris!

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