When Simplicity Elevates the Dinner at La Table de Saint-Roux | Château Saint-Roux, Provence, France

By Sophie Gayot

Le Cannet-des-Maures, Provence, France, May 2022

• GAYOT’s Rating14/20
• Cuisine: French
• Open: Lunch daily 12:00 p.m.-2:00 p.m., Dinner nightly 7:00 p.m.- 9:00 p.m.

A meal at La Table de Saint-Roux must include a tour of the grounds. The charm of Provence is in the air at every corner, every step, in each fountain, tree and plant. Château Saint-Roux has origins dating back to the 15th century. Nowadays, it is a boutique hotel, surrounded by the château’s Côtes-de-Provence vineyards, its own potager exclusively destined for the chef, its own boulangerie, gourmet boutique and farm animals. From the goats, fromages de chèvre are produced. Pigs are useful for recycling scraps. The proprietors of Château Saint-Roux are very keen on sustainability and are trying to make the property self-sufficient as much as possible to reduce its carbon footprint.

With the freshness and the quality of the produce, one might think that it is an easy task for chef Guillaume Rigaudias. Well, not as it seems. Rigaudias’s creations must follow the surroundings: rustic, yet elegant and so charming. His flavors must be strong but not overwhelming as the images captured during the promenade you would have taken. There cannot be a disconnect. The dishes have to flow with the unique ambience created by the various outdoor decorative elements and lush vegetation. And what a success…

I loved every dish from the menu. Even if I am now back in America, I remember every flavor, color and presentation. Like chef Rigaudias and his team, there is nothing pretentious, but only warmth and culinary pleasure. The dishes are ever-changing as they are based on the ingredients of the season. The evening I went, the dinner started with a spoon of salmon gravlax in a bed of combawa cream. Then in a mason jar, came a perfect egg floating in a butternut velouté. On the home-made foccacia bread was spread house-made goat cheese and vegetables from the garden. It was followed by a filet de loup perfectly paired (surprisingly) with watermelon, melon and zucchini in a light shellfish jus. The meat course was a mushroom stuffed leg of guinea hen. Tiramisu and a delicate chocolate tart provided sweet endings. For wine, don’t go too far: choose the ones from the Château. The other good news is the price of the set menu. (There is no à la carte.) The full 4-course menu costs € 40.00 — a steal for this level of cuisine and location.

> Sophie‘s Tip: La Table de Saint-Roux is one of those restaurants you dream of going back. And considering it is located in the heart of Provence, that might not happen too soon. So, ENJOY it while you are there.

Château Saint-RouxGAYOT’s Rating14/20
Route départementale 17, Route de la Garde Freinet
83340 Le Cannet-des-Maures, France
+33 4 98 10 02 61
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