: Samak Thongkrieng, who learned his stuff at Ess-a-Bagel, turns out bagels that are huge and have an oh-so-soft texture more like that of a Chinese bun than an old-fashioned New York bagel. Still, Absolute's bagels get high marks for flavor, especially the egg, cinnamon-raisin and whole-wheat sesame. They also taste great as sandwiches, especially filled with breakfast fixings and lox, too.

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