: Set on the edge of Gramercy Park and not-so-posh Stuyvesant Town, this veteran eatery specializing in northern Italian fare feels much more Mulberry Street than, say, Milan. The staid atmosphere, as stiff as the starched white tablecloths that grace the 20 or so tables in the dining room, exemplifies what comes out of the kitchen: bland lasagna and overcooked pasta that’s topped with gallons of red sauce or cream-drenched carbonara. Pizza is passable, and regulars like the chicken Parm and spaghetti Bolognese. Waitstaff is friendly but not knowledgeable about the food (or wine) served.

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