All Spice

All Spice Restaurant Review:

Tucked behind the busy thoroughfare that is El Camino Real, chef Sachin Chopra’s Indian hideaway enchants diners the moment they set foot in its charming Victorian foyer. The residence-cum-restaurant provides a unique setting for contemporary dining --- the front room, presumably a former living room with its bay windows and fireplace, is warmed by deep jewel-toned green walls, nicely contrasted by sleek leather chairs and recessed lighting. Two tidy dining rooms are situated just behind, with the kitchen at the furthest reach of the home and completely out of sight. Chopra’s innovative Indian cuisine plays with dualities, pairing opposing flavors such as sweet with savory or rich with refreshing. Tuna tartare is brightened with pickled, puckery watermelon. Scallops are smoked in lavender and garnished with bacon for a blend of herbaceous and salty. Milky butternut squash soup contains noodles inflected with mint, and the pairing not only works it pops. Mains could use some work --- bacon-wrapped lamb was undercooked, the bacon making the meat difficult to cut. Short ribs vindaloo fares better: the meat falls off the bone and is topped with warm goat cheese. Don't miss Chopra’s signature ice creams in flavors such as yuzu-thyme or Parmesan.