: When owner/chef Thierry Tomasin, who hails from the southwest of France, took on Angelus, the entire area heaved a sigh of relief: at last a distinguished brasserie with authentic cooking in Bayswater. The restaurant, situated in a former pub, has dark wood, proper linen, chandeliers, large mirrors and Mucha-type pictures, but it only comes alive when it’s full, and a brunch menu served throughout the day helps. The cooking is thoroughly modern but uses native British ingredients where possible. Try wild rabbit with smoked gammon terrine and Savoy cabbage, or Cornish squid ragù raviolo with crushed baked sweet potato to start. Mains offer the classics, from poached turbot with shellfish and sea vegetable nage, charred leeks, patty pans and deep fried kale, to duck assiette with star anise rhubarb purée, pomme cocotte, hibiscus powder and coffee sauce. Follow with an irresistible dark chocolate pavé with white chocolate shavings, chocolate croquant and crème fraîche ice cream. It’s all cooked with the lightest of touches. Set lunch including coffee, tea or infusions, and petits fours 2 courses £23, 3 courses £28.

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