: The smallish standalone building in one corner of a suburban shopping center’s parking lot doesn’t seem to herald fine fare. Do not be fooled. Begin a meal with a finely crafted cocktail and graze among chef Anoosh Shariat’s appetizers, such as lemongrass-rubbed Thai shrimp and a savory eggplant bruschetta. Salads include heirloom beets and arugula, Kentucky Bibb with blue cheese bourbon vinaigrette, or the poached pear with mixed greens. Vegetarian offerings include a platter of roasted seasonal vegetables or tofu vindaloo with cashew coconut broth. Braised beef short rib, veal scaloppini, grilled pork tenderloin Dijon, and rack of lamb are first-rate. Knowledgeable staff can recommend pairings from the international wine list; many of the selections are available by the glass. At the end of dinner, have one of the house-made ice creams or sorbets. Because the space is intimate, ask for a table in the corner of the bar.

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