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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Apicius

122, av. de Villiers Send to Phone
01 43 80 19 66
Métro: Péreire


Cuisine

Open
Closed Sat.-Sun., Aug. Open until 10pm
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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Apicius Restaurant Review

: When culinary writer Apicius got into dire debt from his daily gluttony, he chose to poison himself rather than live out the rest of his days eating the food of which ordinary human beings partake. When you want to revel in the gustatory sensuality typical of Apicius’s Ancient Rome (excluding the vomitoriums and orgies), just drop in on Jean-Pierre Vigato, the George Bernard Shaw of the kitchen. The party begins from the moment Madeleine Vigato welcomes you into the lavishly flower-decked dining room, and Vigato’s Don Juan style, a true cuisine d’auteur, contains the sensuality within the bounds of your plate. A high-stepping cuisine with the power to move, continually reviewing and reinterpreting age-old themes: a pepper-coated foie gras, roasted whole, finished off with a paraph of unctuous cocoa sauce; a midriff of turbot, served on the bone like a prime rib, highlighted with an ethereal jus de viande, incensed with a hint of Balsamic vinegar and crowned with a few potatoes à la coppa. The ideas are endless: frothy lemon butters, horeseradish confit, visionary desserts---tout-chocolat, blanc-manger with orgeat syrup. His daily inspirations can be sampled through the half-dozen different starters and entrées each day (which Madeleine describes at each table in luscious detail). The eclectic sommelier seduces you with his mixture of great Bordeaux and Burgundies sparked with surprising treasures from lesser known growers.





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