Seven Lamps Awards

Seven Lamps Restaurant Review:

Regionally sourced products underpin Drew Van Leuvan's seasonal cuisine. Small plates and snacks are where the most interesting morsels are found; a list of "sammies" at lunch and a few mains at dinner flesh out the menu. It doesn't get more Southern than an heirloom tomato sandwich with Duke's mayonnaise, but this one's served on brioche instead of the classical white bread. Van Leuvan does a lot of pickling and preserving, and we admire his way with this kind of farmhouse staple. Mortadella mousse is a signature dish, as is the lobster salad tucked into a bun. Consider, too, airy house-made gnocchi; roasted whole fish, which might be loup de mer; Carolina red fish; and Maine mussels with their Southern touch from smoked andouille. Desserts are always inventive. The short, frisky wine list presents a number of thoughtful choices, but, like the menu, is always changing to maintain interest. Happy Hour Monday-Friday from 5 p.m.-7 p.m. offers $1 oysters.