South End Awards

South End Restaurant Review:

An unassuming strip mall behind a gas station on Abbot Kinney Boulevard hides this tiny Venice gem of a café/wine bar by Mario Vollera (Piccolo, Barbershop) and Frank Fermin (Pizzeria Mozza). A handsome, high-energy crowd jams together at communal tables, the music rocks and the wine flows. If you don’t mind the high volume (you get used to it), there’s hardly a better place to explore some interesting wines and chow down on first-rate pizza. Fermin’s former Mozza pedigree is echoed in a dozen fine rustic pies imbued with pure, clear flavors. The Trolleyway combines fresh mozzarella, ricotta, sottocenere, Piave and arugula with a touch of black truffle sea salt; there’s pleasing tanginess in the chewy sourdough crust. District 11 is a medley of fresh-made heritage pork salsiccia, Nueske’s smoked bacon and pepperoni with crushed tomatoes. For something lighter, opt for a caramelized onion and Brie tart and a well-composed little gem lettuce or arugula salad. Vollera’s wine selection is global but skews toward Italy, and he and an entirely charming staff like to share their enthusiasm for an Amarone or Sangiovese. Don’t miss the goat cheese cheesecake for dessert.