Wildair Awards

Wildair Restaurant Review:

Chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske, who conceived the tasting-menu-only restaurant known as Contra, have dipped into à la carte territory with casually chic, 45-seat wine bar Wildair. A semi-industrial space with exposed brick walls, raised schoolhouse-style seats and communal tables provides the backdrop for a menu of eclectic New American fare, an elegant place to pair wines with nibbles or more substantial eats. Dishes are simply prepared and quality driven. They include crunchy breakfast radishes with seaweed butter and blistered shishito peppers. A scallop crudo with kale, cucumber and oro blanco is fresh and delicate, while beef tartare with smoked cheddar and chestnut is full of robust flavors. Desserts feature creative ingredient combinations such as a vanilla custard with rhubarb granita. The wine list consists of well-chosen French varietals and other international selections, with an emphasis on natural wines. Try a glass of something that may be impossible to discover elsewhere, like a biodynamic fino sherry, a Grenache blanc from Catalonia, and obscure Italian liqueur.