THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bar Bambino

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bar Bambino Restaurant Review:

This chic Italian boîte defines sexy. The menu covers and napkin holders are fashioned from supple leather, the walls are dark and chandeliers sparkle above rustic communal tables. An exclusively Italian wine bar abuts a cheese and salumi station (watch waiters carefully cut and deliver artful plates). Food can be very good---any of the salads, soups or antipasti are fine bets, including a blissful bruschetta. The bright polpette di melanzane (vegetarian eggplant “meatballs”) are subtly dotted with chopped pine nuts and currants and spooned with just-right-and-just-enough tomato sauce; we also recommend the rich, traditional meat versions. Braised lamb shank melts off the bone and is finished with good olives. For contorni, the sage-roasted pumpkin spears are a hit. Pastas are forgettable first plates---portions are small, and their execution does not impress. Espresso drinks, however, are dusky, authentic treats. The tight, attractive scene culls a voguish crowd, with form winning out over function in some departments, including somewhat bumpy service; for more breathing room, secure a table on the pretty back patio.