Bedford & Co.

Bedford & Co. Restaurant Review:

Chef John DeLucie (of now-closed Crown and The Lion) is at the helm of this genteel seasonal American --- by way of Argentina --- spot inside Midtown’s The Renwick. There are two handsome, understated floors of olive green and various shades of brown, plus plenty of wood and leather, but it’s all about the wood-fired grill in DeLucie’s open kitchen. Piles of wood double as décor and cooking fuel. For breakfast, eggs and frittatas arrive with crispy potatoes, and the rye and buttermilk pancakes are fluffy and scattered with fresh berries. As the day unfolds, Bedford & Co.’s bartenders shake up a mean Negroni. The well-rounded wine list features bottles from Argentina (plus the usual suspects: California, Italy and France). Fresh pastas, like a squid ink spaccatelli with squid, ’nduja, chili and basil, were underwhelming. Instead, it’s wise to opt for dishes that go for a spin in that grill. Octopus comes out charred and smoky, wild mushrooms are flavorful, and a Berkshire pork chop with a sour orange glaze and marinated radicchio is juicy and satisfying. Don’t leave without a silky cheesecake in a jar, topped with maple granola and tangy Concord grape compote.