THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bocanova

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bocanova Restaurant Review:

Bocanova's pan-Latin cuisine was initially inspired by family-style, staff-only restaurant suppers --- fitting since the staff at this expansive waterfront restaurant seems very much like a family. Co-owners chef Rick Hackett and manager Meredith Melville are husband and wife --- they met on the job at Oakland's Bay Wolf. With Bocanova, Hackett made it his mission to explore diverse, assertive Latin American cuisines and revisit them with California-style finesse. The setting could hardly be more casual-romantic, with up-close yacht harbor views, a cavernous interior with large windows and a lively outdoor patio. Executive chef John Jackson's seasonal menu of robust shareable plates is divided into categories such as from the "raw bar," "pantry," "freidora," "rotisserie" and "la plancha," and most are meant to be paired with wine, of which the restaurant is flush. Charismatic general manager Gerardo Acevedo-Vanni, a former pro rugby player and native of Chile, is happy to help with pairing suggestions. Some dishes eclipse others --- the Prime filet with ancho salt and cauliflower mousse is worth the hefty price tag. South-of-the-border cocktails include Brazil's national drink, the citrus-cachaça caipirinha. Programs include take-out lunches, late-night "Boca Bites," a "Rick's Supper Club" series of family-style meals based on special themes (Jalisco, organic wines, mole) and an international wine club.