Bowery Meat Company

Bowery Meat Company Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & décor: From chef Josh Capon and restaurateur John McDonald, the team behind Lure Fishbar, the clubby Bowery Meat Company is a steakhouse with lots of hipness served with its beef. Eames chairs and dark panels recall another century, but the menu is of this exact moment.

Food & Drinks: There’s plenty of opulence here, in the form of caviar service and silky foie gras and chicken liver terrine with parsley butter. Shrimp are fat and sweet in the well-executed shrimp cocktail. As far as the namesake meat is concerned, a flavorful sauce of sweet soy, garlic, chiles and honey makes the Korean pork rib-eye sing. A dry-aged burger, topped with griddled onions, raclette cheese and bright tomato aïoli, is spot-on. A veal chop gets rubbed with paprika, coriander and fennel; New York strip is served with only sea salt. Duck lasagna sounds enticing but arrives overly goopy. The wine list is deep, with five houses of Bordeaux. Pastry chef Katie McAllister serves rich, nostalgic desserts, like a chocolate chip cookie that errs on the side of brownie.