Braise

Braise Restaurant Review:

Even before swinging open the doors to this comfortable eatery named for the low-and-slow cooking technique, late chef/original co-owner Bobby Huber could have been dubbed the “Ace of Braise.” In the '90s and '00s, his lamb shanks and short ribs drew fans at the erstwhile Bobbywood. Those dishes have made their comeback here as have others like addictive linguine with clams. Although Huber is no longer with us, owner Mei ling Perkins carries on without skipping a beat. Or beet. The roasted beet and goat cheese salad is ever-popular, and the seasonally altered menu might suggest other faves like salt-cured prime strip with roasted mushrooms, smoked pork chop and sweet potato flan, or fried oysters with spicy corn relish and lemon aïoli. Chocolate amaretto sin pie is a praiseworthy dessert. For a special meal, request the “treehouse,” an intimate circular table in a secluded corner that’s a cut above. Braise is unpretentious even though its culinary output could justify airs. Instead, it’s as welcoming as a corner weinstube and offers wines at prices so low, they warrant a double-take. Some are even less at Happy Time (4 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., bar only) when generously portioned appetizers are generously reduced, too.