THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cadence

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cadence Restaurant Review:

This sleek project from the team behind Lower Haight’s Maven further pushes the option of fine dining into San Francisco’s otherwise dodgy mid-market neighborhood. An elegant main dining room features two prix-fixe menus --- one vegetarian --- and low-lit whalebone booths and romantic four-tops. Or, opt for the eclectic à la carte offerings at the livelier communal tables and tiled teacup booths near the bar. Creative cocktails are food friendly and fairly light but for the brandy-driven Apple Thief, which packs a pleasing cidery bite. Chef Joey Elenterio’s (Chez TJ, Wayfare Tavern) crunchy rice pellet-crusted Castelvetrano olives are worth a dip, and the Indian fry bread is notable for its whipped linguiça and goat cheese filling. Black-pepper ricotta dumplings were upstaged by a supporting cast of Brussels sprouts and braised red cabbage, but we found solace in an expertly deboned whole trout over crispy potatoes and creamed onion. The moist, miso-braised beef cheeks are also worth sampling. Desserts are led by a milk chocolate crémeux with a silky cashew mousse. A modest lineup of wines by the glass and eight bottled beers round out the service. Patrons can lead or close their evening with live jazz over cocktails and bar bites at the team’s adjoining Mr. Tipples Recording Studio.