THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cafe Majestic

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Cafe Majestic Restaurant Review:

THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED Majestic returns San Francisco to its golden years as trendy takes a back seat for a change. High-back booths and glass and brass partitions muffle eavesdropping. A cream color scheme mutes the room even further. If located in Washington, D.C., the allotted privacy in this conservative room would lure power brokers and politicians. The sophisticated cooking of Cortez and The French Laundry alum Louis Maldonado does not compromise this restrained style. Mellow Jerusalem artichoke soup is touched with a niçoise-olive crème fraîche and a dusting of piment d'espelette. Tender slices of Japanese octopus served just crispy elicit lusty bacon flavor, served with cardoons (wish there were more) and marble potatoes in white and purple. Cubes of yellowfin tuna specked with fresh wasabi and sliced cucumber didn’t light us up; the dish was just all right. The winning entrée: light olive oil-poached sturgeon with flesh so fresh it tastes of the sea comes smartly sauced in stout cauliflower and guanciale. A disconnect hampers savory and sweet; dessert leans esoteric, the concepts hard to sink our teeth into, including a makrut lime granité that takes on too much ginger. Nevertheless, Maldonado intrigues with curious flavor combinations.