Cambio de Tercio

Cambio de Tercio Restaurant Review:

For food that respects its fundamental style but brings it right up to date, look to the frontiers of the Old World. In this Iberian outpost a good starter is arguably the world's most luxurious ham, or go for a selection of tapas, perhaps ceviche of scallops with lost fino sherry, pea sprouts and parsnip salad or Malaga style cold almond soup and smoked eel with spheres of grapes and nougat ice cream. Main dishes tempt equally with an imaginative choice: olive oil confit cod fish, baby squid cooked in ink, stuffed with pancetta, or crispy roasted suckling pig from Salamanca with grilled lettuce, pickled kumquat and shallots. Like many of the dishes, the suckling pig has its inspiration in northern Spain, specifically Burgos and Galicia. Vegetarians have their own tasting menu but may not appreciate the décor based on the colours and artifacts of the bull-ring. Desserts are delectable. The first-rate all-Spanish wine list is worth a serious browse, and be guided by the sommelier --- unless you are an expert you are in relatively uncharted waters. Courteous Spanish service is welcoming. The sister restaurant across the road, Tendido Cero, offers tapas in a slightly less formal setting.