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Casa Lever

390 Park Ave. (54th St.) Send to Phone
Upscale Milanese-centered cuisine in a landmark mid-20th-century skyscraper, Lever House.

Cuisine
Open
Breakfast & Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Features

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Casa Lever, New York, NY

Casa Lever Restaurant Review

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About the restaurant & décor: Housed in a landmark modernist glass building designed by Gordon Bunshaft and boasting a striking geometric-dominant interior that is highlighted by a row of authentic Warhols situated above leather banquettes, Casa Lever's dining space is impressive to say the least. The restaurant's well-executed Italian and Milanese menu is equally notable.

Likes: Seamless service and an elegant and stylish interior.
Dislikes: The gnocchi lacked a pillowy consistency, being instead, slightly pasty.

Food & Drinks: Locally and regionally sourced ingredients are used to craft such delicate and artfully presented starters as a carpaccio of fluke and citrus fruits accented with dill, and sautéed Mediterranean calamari on a bed of lettuce. Pasta dishes are creatively prepared; try linguine tossed with sea urchin and Alaskan king crab, with chili added for a touch of heat, or savory pappardelle with tender beef short ribs, red onion and caciocavallo. Icelandic cod seasoned with Taggiasca olives, capers, pine nuts and basil is flaky and flavorful, while a classically made slow-cooked osso buco alla Milanese served with seared saffron risotto, bone marrow and gremolata is hearty and satisfying. Desserts include a creamy and indulgent tiramisu and an airy seasonal fruit meringue. The old-world wine lists propose numerous selections by the glass and by the bottle. Sparkling varieties like a Franciacorta "Cuvee Prestige" Ca 'del Bosco pair well with lighter and seafood-centered fare, while reds such as an Oddero Barolo complement the more substantial offerings.
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