Cassarino's Ristorante

Cassarino's Ristorante Restaurant Review:

Cassarino's has a split personality. The ground-floor dining room is a hip bistro with a huge bar illuminated by overhead blown-glass lamps. The two upstairs rooms have a saloon-like vibe, with wood-topped tables and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Atwells Avenue. The menu follows the same pattern: classics such as veal Parmigiana and steak à la mama --- huge portions, all --- remain popular, but owners Tyler Barron and Steven Renzi (who’s also the executive chef) aren't afraid to mix things up a bit, even as they maintain their devotion to simple preparations. Pollo con broccoli rabe places thin grilled chicken cutlets topped with fresh roasted peppers and portobellos on a bed of rabe sautéed in olive oil and garlic and tossed with prosciutto. It's a skillful blend that leaves the sometimes persnickety rabe silky smooth, not bitter. When it's available as a special, Cajun salmon comes nicely cooked to a just-soft pink center and is finished with fresh mango salsa. The menu includes several gluten-free options, including pastas. Service is informal and friendly, providing a welcoming atmosphere both to old-school diners downing pasta and gravy (in Rhode Island that means tomato sauce) with Chianti and the young sophisticates sipping Bellinis at the bar.