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90 Park Lane Send to Phone
020-7409 1290

Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.
  • Dress code: Ties suggested
  • Reservations suggested

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Chez Nico Restaurant Review

: The intention of Nico Ladenis in his ’down to earth’ restaurant is to put the ’g’ back in ’gastronomy’. Service by informally uniformed staff, is attentive as ever, but more relaxed. The slightly longer menu is à la carte at lunch so guests can choose two or three courses, or even a single dish; at dinner the same list becomes table d’hôte at £48 for three courses. The food is lighter, but happily unchanged in that fine cooking takes precedence over luxurious ingredients, although foie gras, caviar and truffles still have their place, as does Balik smoked salmon, arguably a touch bland for some London tastes. In the elegantly balanced seven-course gastronomic menu, (£62), standards are set by risotto perfumed by minute specks of black truffle. Other highlights include grilled scallops, and langoustine tortellini, their cream sauces satisfying both traditionalists and those seeking twenty-first century lightness. Seared sea bass with fennel in basil oil was one example of great provençale cuisine; another was herb-crusted slices of lamb saddle, topped by a fan of crisp potato, on a base of tomato, courgettes and aubergine. In the mini-assiette of four desserts some flavours seemed too delicate for forgivably tiring palates. Maestro Ladenis’ other ventures now include Incognito, 177 Shoftesbury Ave., WC2, 020-7836 8866, and others. Set 3-course dinner £48, 7 courses £62.


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