: This truly is one of the most intimate locales on either side of the river. Lino Catroppa's fifteen-table hideaway is lit only by the food warmer’s flames and a flaming hearth. Each table seems to have its own alcove. Made-at-the-table pasta dishes, such as a very credible spaghetti carbonara, may be ordered as an appetizer to share or as a main course. Many dishes are cooked on the grill, including skewered Italian pork sausage, chicken Diablo and rack of lamb that's scented with rosemary sprigs. Catroppa named his charming spot, down a few steps from the sidewalk in a small, discreet brownstone, for the ancient Roman restaurants that were called cook's shops.

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