THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Copia

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Copia Restaurant Review:

It still looks like Mezé: open and airy and fairly understated, with only a handsome striped carpet to absorb the previously notorious decibel level. It still talks like Mezé: the waitstaff is wine-savvy and a touch formal, if personable. But is it Mezé? Nope. Well, maybe a little---plus a whole lotta Prezza. Named for the Roman goddess of plenty, Anthony Caturano’s pan-Mediterranean sophomore venture tosses a few bones to fans of its former Greek incarnation---there are stuffed grape leaves and tzatziki amid the antipasti, baklava-like triangles for dessert. But Caturano borrows far more heavily from his own Italian heavy-hitter in the North End whose menu likewise strongly emphasizes grilled meats and fish. Indeed, the kitchen at Copia may distinguish itself from that of its older sibling by displaying a little extra brawn, forgoing a few frills. Wood-grilled sardines arrive in all their crispy, musky glory; an enormous Gruyère-stuffed pork chop with vinegar peppers proves a polished rendition of the old chestnut. Risotto with butternut squash, mascarpone and rock shrimp provides the only off-notes, its delicate ingredients become a bit muddled and dull in their mixture. As for the prices, well, at least they don’t soar quite as high as the Zakim Bridge, just beyond the plate glass windows.