: Owners Doug and Lori Horn incautiously opened an authentic pizzeria Napoletana in a city attuned to piled-high pies with cheese-filled crusts. Little did we imagine that a vera margherita, fresh from its 90-second encounter with a 900-degree, made-in-Naples oven, was what we really wanted all along. Dough expanded to Dallas before enlarging its local quarters, but even with more space, there can still be lines out the door at peak periods. If you find yourself waiting, enjoy a wine from the admirable, all-Italian list, despite the bar’s cramped quarters. Dough’s antipasti and cicchetti are inspired assemblies of house-pulled burrata, cured meats and roasted olives, all served with addictive, herbed flatbread, which seems to have been crafted especially to cradle the grilled peppers and sausages with red grapes. Distinguished pies include a Fontina, mushroom and caramelized onion; a lofty prosciutto and arugula with truffle oil; and the infamous "Pork Love" flaunting salami, sausage, pancetta and speck.

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