: This is exactly the kind of place a lot of picky sushi lovers would pass by without a second thought, given its generic signage and unflattering mini-mall location. That, however, would be a mistake, since this is a high-quality establishment where the skilled, friendly owner turns out simple yet delicious morsels of seafood that he obtains daily from the fish market long before the rest of us even wake up. Echigo uses very warm rice, which gives the sushi a slightly different dimension. Among the best items are velvety ankimo (monkfish liver) topped with golden miso sauce, albacore, uni, kanpachi and crab hand roll. Squid stuffed with crab is another interesting specialty. The sushi bar is strictly omakase, but you can select from the menu at white-clothed tables in the plain, whitewashed dining room. To drink, find refreshing sparkling saké.

REVIVE AT VIBIANA | GAYOT.com

Enjoy an evening of acrobatic circus feats and culinary treats at REVIVE at Vibiana by chef Neal Fraser's Redbird in downtown Los Angeles. See GAYOT's photos.