: Tacos and burritos are the subjects of much controversy around town. While the snootiest devotees can be very particular about their preferences---protective of their favored institutions and dismissive of those others adore---few dare quibble with El Metate's broadly appealing array of fresh offerings, admirable consistency and charming digs. Occupying a bright, canary-yellow storefront that has expanded to swallow its entire corner, the taqueria stands out for its sweet, chewy breaded fish and a luxurious pork shoulder in green chile sauce---both welcome in tacos or burritos---as well as massive quesadillas heaped with salsa, sour cream and guacamole in a striped pattern reminiscent of the Mexican flag. Sometimes the owner has a dangerous, off-menu habanero salsa available, so heat-seekers should ask.

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