Epicure

Epicure Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: Hotel Le Bristol is one of the most select of the Parisian Palaces (the property was conceived in 1925 by Hippolyte Jammet, whose grandson André, by the way, owned and ran the esteemed, now defunct, La Caravelle in Manhattan). The superbly elegant dining room opens widely on the "jardin à la Française" --- a model of architectural balance evocative of a soothing cloister. It's common to see international moguls, movie stars and high-ranking French politicians (the Presidential Palace and the Ministry of the Interior are at the corner) lunching or dining at one of the 45 tables, which are widely spaced on both sides of the fireplace that's topped by an 18th-century painting of a waterfall (a genuine artwork, as are all of the other paintings and tapestries).

Food & Drinks: Longtime chef Eric Frechon has stepped away from the stoves, where he has been a keeper of the French culinary tradition. Previous meals have featured classic bistro fare, a tad rogue, such as herring pomme à l'huile (kipper with potato salad), only revisited and mellowed in an emulsion of fromage blanc (cottage cheese) on a jelly of vegetables. Elegance comports the spirit and the taste of this brasserie dish. Expect the same treatment for the humble "merlan de ligne." Modest whiting panned with a thin slice of bread encrusted with almonds, half-cooked tetragon, curry oil and piquillo peppers melts in the mouth, liberating a subtle oceanic flavor. Pigeon served to specifications and lacquered with spicy honey, with a crumble of pine nuts and cumin-stewed fennel, in a jus à la diable (meat sauce reduction), belongs to the succulent highlights of the menu, as does the "chestnut of the sea," indeed a sea urchin enriched with an egg brouillade, and the inventive grilled leek stuffed with a tartare of oyster with Xeres vinegar, an exciting combination. A refined touch is the changing of napkins for the desserts. We have enjoyed sweet finales such as nitrogen-frozen Madagascar vanilla and caramel mou (soft) praliné of hazelnut and pecan ice cream. The "Priceless Nyangbo Chocolat" is a savory variation on cocoa: liquid, solid and frozen in a fine real-gold foil. On the lighter and more refreshing side, splendid too is the citron de Menton (Menton lemon) frozen with limoncello. Service is at par with the excellence of the food, as is the wine program, which is 90% French and features the premium wines one would expect.