Fall
for Gourmets in
Paris
Charting the Changes Big and
Small
Quite
often,
Parisian restaurants mark the coming of
fall with some changes such as a new chef or
different décor. There’s nothing to report
along those lines from the great dining
palaces—for the moment. Although a rumor
concerning the departure of a certain
triple-starred chef is making the rounds, we’ll
have to wait a few more weeks to know for
sure.
In
2005, the start of the season was marked by
Alain Senderens at
Lucas Carton “giving back” his three stars to
the Michelin Guide in favor of simplified
décor, service and cuisine. A year later,
Senderens (Lucas Carton’s
new name) is packed, and you have to reserve
way in advance. Christian Constant, head chef
at
Les Ambassadeurs (Hôtel
de Crillon) a decade ago, reiterated
Senderens’ statement more discreetly by cutting
in half the prices at his restaurant
Le Violon d’Ingres. He had
already lost a Michelin star and while this
decision seems less spectacular, it does
illustrate a trend of lowering prices to
attract a younger clientele. In contrast,
trendy and fashionable places and those that
cater to glitterati are raising
prices.
Young
Hélène Darroze, has just added
an addition to the ground floor of her
restaurant, called Boudoir.
For around €60 one can enjoy extremely
sophisticated (and gourmet) finger foods like
truffled Landes duck foie gras lollipop,
saturated with flavors of the
Southwest.
Two
former chefs at
Alain Senderens—Bertrand Ganneron and
Frederic Robert—have just surfaced, the first
as the owner of
Bascou, the latter at
La Grande
Cascade.
Le Chateaubriand on avenue
Parmentier, which was put on the map by a young
Englishwoman of anonymous background, now has a
young Basque at the helm. Inaki Aizpitarte was
most recently at restaurant
Le Transversal (Musée de Vitry on the
Seine), and he offers a cuisine he calls
“avant-garde.”
As far
as bistros go, Jean Paul Arabian, once director
of Ledoyen, and owner of
Pierre au Palais Royal, has opened
Le Caméléon. There, starting at
eight o’clock each morning, you can have
breakfast and get items to go. Chef David
Angelot, also formerly at Ledoyen, updates
classics of bourgeois cuisine: warm leeks in
vinaigrette, mackerel pissaladière, fried smelt
fish, skate with capers, and Provençal bourride
(white fish with potatoes in a lightly flavored
garlic sauce). The warm décor is by Alberto
Balli, and prices are reasonable: €30 for a
lunch menu à la carte, €40 for
dinner.
Close
by, on the rue de la Grande Chaumière,
Wadja has restaurateur Thierry
Coue who is one of the players helping to
revive the bistro scene in Paris.
Alain Ducasse is also in
the news: he has entrusted young David Zuddas
with the task of creating a sandwich out of
Berber bread, red pepper confit, eggplant and
feta available in all B.E.s or
Boulangepiceries. It’s also said that the
multi-starred chef has his heart set on an old
brasserie in the 17th arrondissement. The name
Rech has been going around.
Finally,
Pascal Yar, former director of
Gaya Rive Gauche, reopened his “club” for
fish aficionados in the 7th arrondissement
called 35 degrés Ouest, where
the young Reddy Merienne prepares a colorful
and poignant cuisine: warm sardines in spicy
chutney, fish tartar in Caesar sauce (with
anchovies) and delicious pan fried langoustine
accompanied by a water cress velouté. The roast
wild bass with cèpes mushrooms and veal juice
reduction like the Saint Pierre fish with
cockles and capers served with a lightly
moussed jus are his modern takes on the seafood
genre. Count on a few gourmet desserts, wines
by the glass, and a small but well-selected
wine cellar. Small lunch menu (wine and coffee
included): €29. A la carte about
€55.
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