FlintCreek Cattle Co.

FlintCreek Cattle Co. Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: In the shell of an old antiques building, white walls and metal and polished-wood furnishings bring a modern look. But the ample light from the large windows and bare floors keep a hint of rusticity --- much as the food mixes hefty steaks and game meats with refined cooking technique.

Food & Drinks: Though the name and menu imply a carnivore focus, chef Eric Donnelly’s skills shine through as much in the vegetable-focused starters as they do with the bison and boar mains. Crisp pickled vegetables come blasted with umami from a blue cheese-tahini sauce, tempered by a touch of toasted sesame, while grilled kuri squash with burrata takes a nontraditional turn with pistachio oil and saba (grape must syrup). Entrées bring big meats --- venison loin and lamb crepinette --- in combination with intriguing sides: caramelized Romanesco; fennel sugo over Parmesan-potato gnocchi. For dessert, familiar flavors are taken a bit upscale, as in the brown butter-bourbon pudding with coconut cream and coconut tuille. The surprisingly affordable wine list keeps everything in the two-digit range, while sourcing from Washington, Oregon, France and Italy.